Whiskey Peak - East Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: A: Microbrew; B: Schaeffer's Delight; C: Lazy Butt...
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The lower eastern shoulder of Whiskey Peak is composed of the Lazy Buttress and several small faces that are to the left of the big white rockfall scar. There are many good moderate trad climbs in this area.
Several routes here end on or near the large platform called Lovers' Ledge. The easiest descent route crosses to the far side of the brushy gully behind the ledge, then goes up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully. This can be followed down and east, eventually wrapping around the base of the wall to the approach trail.
Walk west on the trail from the parking area. At the mouth of the canyon, the trail splits; take the uphill (left) branch directly up to the base of the wall. The trail reaches the rock immediately under Schaeffer's Delight.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Whiskey Peak - East
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whiskey Peak - East:
Featured Route For Whiskey Peak - East
Schaeffer's Delight 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Whiskey Peak - East
Immediately above the spot where the Frogland approach trail reaches the base of the cliff is a clean varnished face. The right side of this face has an obvious S-shaped crack. Schaeffer's Delight starts just to the left of the S-shaped crack and follows magnificent 5.7 face-climbing past several bolts and a few small cam placements to a good belay ledge with a bush on it. You can rappel from this ledge with two ropes, as the first ascent party did in 1984. George Urioste returned a few year...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
View from the top of the buttress.
By Larry Graham
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2015
Just a head's up to those ending at Lover's ledge. The Handren book, as excellent as it is, does not describe the descent from there. It is important to know that the gully just below is NOT the same descent gully as for other Whiskey Peak descents. You need to scramble UP that gully a ways (as mentioned above in the intro to Whiskey Peak East) to intersect the "Frogland descent gully" which is well marked with cairns and a fairly easy descent down and back around to the north and the base of various climbs. We made the mistake yesterday of going DOWN the gully below the ledge. This was pretty dangerous, with much loose rock. It has been traveled and there is a needed rap station near the end but definitely not the best way to go.