Whiskey and Weed Power 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | 8/27/04 Greg M, Clark O |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Boissal on Sep 4, 2007 |
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Climbing Whiskey & Weed Power, Photo by Greg Marti...
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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
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Description (2 cruxes up high) WWP is another good Martinez route on the right side of Tower 2. The theme is pretty consistent with the other lines up there: long, pumpy, good holds to a devious crux bulge then endure the pump to the chains.
The crux of this one awaits at the 5th bolt with strange undercling moves to smallish crimps and - gasp! - no feet! A couple of bolts of this nonsense brings you to the sweetest pockets at HelmetGate. Catch a rest there and fire the steep second half looking for more hidden pockets to your left.
Long draws are useful on the bolts in the middle.
One can supposedly reach extreme levels of pump by mantling above the anchors on a dirty shelf, bumping the grade to an unprecedented 5.11. Don't do it, there's one of those cool mini-saplings living there and it doesn't need the disturbance. If you do take pics of the belly-flopping downclimb or gnar-jump that will necessarily follow.
Location This is the furthest bolted line on the right side of the face of Tower 2. Start below the boulder platform on black rock about 10' R of Insane ITB and 20' R of Deja-Vu. Then go up.
Protection 13 bolts to 2 bolts chain anchor.
Jeff Olsen on Whiskey & Weed Power
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| Comments on Whiskey and Weed Power |
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By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Jul 24, 2009
| Pretty consistant climbing. Crimpers in between underclings and jugs. Those last couple moves to the chains are rough when you're pumped if you are going for the redpoint |
By Jerome Sharpe
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 14, 2011
| Sustained and pumpy. |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| Did anyone leave a camera at the base of this climb today? Message me with the type and color and we can coordinate it's return. |
By Andrewprime1
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| Climbed this the other day. It was a great route! Ill have to come back and red point it sometime soon. Damn thing was tricky. There are more bolts on it than you can see at first glance, I was short and had to back clean. Beware the last pockets, they are totally not as good as you would want. |
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