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Y-Crack Wall
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Whiskey a Go-Go S 
Whiskey Chimmney AKA Pigeon Crack T 
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Whiskey a Go-Go 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 8,974
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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C. Treiber looking strong on Whiskey (photo G. For...

Description 

Whiskey a Go Go climbs the wall just left of the saddle between the wall and the spire. The climb follows discontinuous cracks up the steep face.

The bottom of the face is heavily featured and offers 5.10ish climbing up to the second bolt. The features eventually run out and force the climber into exceedingly thin and dynamic moves to link the widely spaced cracks. Once past the crux, some welcome pockets await; however, they offer little reprieve. A classic top out deposits the climber on a ledge with anchors.

All in all: 50 feet of climbing, increasingly strenuous moves with no rests on perfect, beautiful sandstone. I call it the best hard route in Wisconsin.

Note: Dave Groth (FA) intended for the last bolt to be clipped and for the climbing to remain on the face the whole way. Bailing left before the last bolt and climbing easier rock to the top is considerably easier and is NOT the original route.

Protection 

Bolts. Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all.


Photos of Whiskey a Go-Go Slideshow Add Photo
Power moves above the crux. Photo: Nate Erickson.
Power moves above the crux. Photo: Nate Erickson.
The crux clip. It's all about the thumb. Photo by Kayte Knower.
The crux clip. It's all about the thumb. Photo by ...
Josh Knapp getting bionic on Whiskey a Go-Go.
Josh Knapp getting bionic on Whiskey a Go-Go.
Mid-route on Whiskey
Mid-route on Whiskey
This is me sending Whiskey. You can tell by the smile on my face. Photo by Kayte Knower.
This is me sending Whiskey. You can tell by the sm...
Climber on Whiskey.
Climber on Whiskey.
It ain't over 'til it's over. Entering final moves on Whiskey. Photo: Nate Erickson.
It ain't over 'til it's over. Entering final moves...
Route from the bottom
Route from the bottom
The crux of Whiskey, on a humid day in June. Photo by Kayte Knower.
The crux of Whiskey, on a humid day in June. Photo...
Brushing and thinking...
Brushing and thinking...

Comments on Whiskey a Go-Go Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2013
By Scott Hahn
May 23, 2006

Hands down one of the best routes I have ever done.
By Brian Runnells
Feb 8, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Don't remember seeing any ticks there at the beginning of October.

As for the route, one of the best ever! .12d at the lake ;)
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 2, 2007

12d at the Lake? If it was at the Lake, it would be vertical, painfully thin, and neglected (ala Phlogiston). Good thing it's not at the Lake.

I think Whiskey would rank as a classic at the grade at any area in the U.S. and is much better than routes of the same grade in places like Rifle, Wild Iris, etc.
By Brian Runnells
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I agree Jay, didn't mean to be overly flip about the grade. It truly is one of the best routes anywhere, especially at 13a and of course especially being in WI. There probably isn't a comparable route at the Wild Iris, that is for sure.

Phlogiston is a pretty apt comparison for the DL comparison to Whiskey...unleadable...contrived...
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Too bad that no matter how you shoot pics of this route they just never come out looking very inspiring
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 5, 2008

Are you dissin my photos Travis?
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Haha! noo nothing like that. The photos just dont do the route justice. Ive got a bunch of pics on it myself from years ago, and I was there yesterday taking some too. But no matter how you shoot, the light is always goofy, as is the angle...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 5, 2008

Good. I know what you mean about the lighting. It's all of those pesky trees near there. Still, I'm sure we'd all love to see your photos Travis.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 28, 2009

"Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all. "

Lame.
By SteveSchultz
Apr 28, 2009

Will, it was retro fitted by the FA'ist, if i'm remembering correctly, because he wanted more people to get on it and thought it'd be a waste otherwise. Calm down.
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

You are welcome to skip the bolts if you want.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Classic case of non-resident passing judgement on a route they have never done. You really gotta understand the history, type of rock , etc before you can start making comments like this.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 29, 2009

Will, this line was originally lead with two bolts and natural pro. As Steve said, it was retro bolted so more would get on it. Dave was a hard man and lead a lot of scary shit (props Dave), but I would never lead this thing without the bolts.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

2005ish after falling from the last two crimps 4 times in a row... YES!



By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Aug 16, 2010

has anyone else led this in the style of mr. groth (2 bolts, the rest gear)? and which two bolts did he use? the upper bolts, i assume, correct? i want to redpoint it in that style this fall.
By eric zschiesche
Oct 14, 2010

Just to get in the groove of being somewhat of a whistle pig,.. back in the early/mid 1990's I was up at Necedah with Barney Schaeffer and the late Josh Hanes. Barney was working on the redpoint,.. to get his psyche on,.. I ran 6 laps on lead that afternoon. Beautiful climb, well worth the arc of movement.
By nicros fivten
Feb 14, 2011

Is this thing dry? Anyone know if it is climbable now?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 27, 2011

I was sixteen at the time, and had a proud year or so of climbing experience. Mostly self taught, I had survived many a mistake, before Dave Groth got a hold of me... It was a muggy day, and bugs were thick. Dave and I met Thomas Ramier at the crag early. The objective, maybe my first climbing "objective" ever, was to retro bolt Whiskey a Go-Go. Well, it was Dave's objective and he brought me along for the ride.

That day Whiskey went from having a pin and two bolts with a rating of 5.12c R, to the more modern incarnation we enjoy now. Looking back that was a very pivotal moment in my young life. For 20 years now I have been chasing one new route to the next and have cherished every adventure that the obsession has brought my way. Here's to a classic pitch as it moves into its third decade of kicking ass!
By Tradoholic
Nov 17, 2011

For the record I believe Pete Vinitov lead this on all gear before Burr and himself came to DL for the Climbing Mag photo shoot.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 17, 2011

whiskey on gear. baller!
By Tradoholic
Nov 19, 2011

And to answer your question about the bolts Randy, there are two old SMC hangers among newer bolts, so I assume those are the originals. Bolts #3 and #5 of 6 total. But, I think the gear is pretty reasonable to protect all the way with a little "R" and since Peter upped the ante I think any bolts are now off-limits for a true gear ascent.
By Dylan B.
Jul 28, 2013

Whisky isn't the left-most line on Y-Crack wall anymore. There are at least three bolted lines to the left of it.