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Liberty Cap
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Whirling Dervish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Whirling Dervish 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: KC Baum, solo, december 1990
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

The climb starts in a right facing dihedral on an overhanging thin hands splitter. Climb the thin hands past a short bulge, and gain a large ledge. Clip the first bolt, grab a rest, and then continue up the slightly overhanging arete/face to a large ledge, clipping 2 more bolts on the way.

Set up an anchor and bring up your second.

Descend via a chain around a tree about 30 feet right of the route.

Location 

The start is about 200 feet left of Cool Breeze. It starts at a thin hands overhanging splitter in a right facing dihedral. Bolts on the face are visible from below.

Protection 

Camalots: 2x #1s, plus 3 quickdraws, possibly 1 #2.

Note: two large pieces, #4s, are essential for building an anchor.


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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Apr 21, 2008

The friable holds on the arete section of this climb make Dervish a spooky and, well kinda shitty climb. But I guess that's the Monument for ya....
By Alex Garhart
Apr 19, 2009

I thought this route was fun and unique. The rail that goes up the arete is pretty varnished and solid, didn't notice any thing loose except on the ledge before the sport section.
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Sep 6, 2014

To make this route better, skip the bad sport climbing and hit up the chimney on the right side, in my opinion anyways.