Whippoorwill Rock Climbing
Nuria getting a sweet swim-up start
A low-water climbing area (oct-april)
Deep-water soloing abounds from 5.5 to 5.12+
Many hangers missing, and nasty slipery rock can be encountered.
A great swimming spot during the summer, the hike isn't more than 5 min.
Don't park here late, unless you want to sacrifice your car to some locals.
Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
37 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Whippoorwill
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whippoorwill
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whippoorwill:
Bongo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Jowiki 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Nonameyet 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Flounder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 50'
Pat-Agonia 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Don Miron 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Bender 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Whippoorwill
Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Whippoorwill
This is a very high quality route. It may be quite challenging if 5.11a is your limit. The first bolt is quite high (20 feet), consider stick clipping it. Start by climbing straight up passing the first bolt to reach the overhang. Pass the overhang on the left side following a flake. Diagonal up and right to reach a nice rest in a horizontal. From here, go straight up on some small and sloping holds aiming for a jug about 5 feet to the right of the next bolt (crux). From here, diag...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
Nov 15, 2011
Anyone familiar with Don Miron? The long reach just above the little roof seemed hard for the grade. Anyone want to privately send me the sequence through there? I was sort of hoping that a foothold had broken off that made it harder - there was a little section of broken rock that may have been a right foot but I have no idea if that was before or after the route was graded. I may not ever make it back out there but am curious how it goes.
Oct 21, 2014
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level
Edit - fixed typo, thanks!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 22, 2015
The above link makes you redirect elsewhere. Just use the one on the Summersville/Gauley home page. That one takes you directly to the Summersville Lake level. Here is the link: