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Whippoorwill

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aimee's Jugs S 
Back to the Known S 
Bender S 
Blaze Got a New Job S 
Blimey S 
Bongo S 
Charlotte Corner T 
Ching, Chang, Chong S 
Cowboy in the Dirt S 
Crescent Corner T 
Don Miron S 
Flounder S 
Gimme a Clown S 
Hat Change S 
Holy Mackerel  T 
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 
Jason and the Arguenots S 
Java T 
Jay's Corner T 
Johnny Bravo S 
Jowiki S 
Latch Key Kids S 
Logos S 
Masuko S 
Mojo Jojo Crack T 
Nonameyet S 
Pat-Agonia S 
Pondless S 
Straight Outta Lockmont S 
Tacos Pescados S 
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 
Unknown Rudaw route  S 
Unnamed crack T 
Wafer S 
Waverly S 
Wendy's Jugs S 
Whinerlamer S 

Whippoorwill Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.2338, -80.8552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,441
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Aug 18, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

52°
Tuesday

68° | 44°
Wednesday

71° | 48°
Thursday

64° | 49°
Friday

66° | 48°
Saturday

69° | 49°
You & This Area
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Nuria getting a sweet swim-up start

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A low-water climbing area (oct-april)

Deep-water soloing abounds from 5.5 to 5.12+

Many hangers missing, and nasty slipery rock can be encountered.

A great swimming spot during the summer, the hike isn't more than 5 min.

Don't park here late, unless you want to sacrifice your car to some locals.

Getting There 

Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',10],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Whippoorwill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whippoorwill:
Aimee's Jugs   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Wendy's Jugs   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   
Bongo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cowboy in the Dirt   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Holy Mackerel    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Whinerlamer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Gimme a Clown   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Straight Outta Lockmont   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   
Ching, Chang, Chong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   
Latch Key Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Johnny Bravo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Masuko   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Nonameyet   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flounder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Blaze Got a New Job   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pat-Agonia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Don Miron   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tacos Pescados   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bender   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Jason and the Arguenots   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whippoorwill

Featured Route For Whippoorwill
Rock Climbing Photo: In all it's glory.

Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Whippoorwill
This is a very high quality route. It may be quite challenging if 5.11a is your limit. The first bolt is quite high (20 feet), consider stick clipping it. Start by climbing straight up passing the first bolt to reach the overhang. Pass the overhang on the left side following a flake. Diagonal up and right to reach a nice rest in a horizontal. From here, go straight up on some small and sloping holds aiming for a jug about 5 feet to the right of the next bolt (crux). From here, diag...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Whippoorwill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Whippoorwill
Whippoorwill
Rock Climbing Photo: Facing Masuko.
Facing Masuko.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.

Comments on Whippoorwill Add Comment
Show which comments
By MojoMonkey
Nov 15, 2011
Anyone familiar with Don Miron? The long reach just above the little roof seemed hard for the grade. Anyone want to privately send me the sequence through there? I was sort of hoping that a foothold had broken off that made it harder - there was a little section of broken rock that may have been a right foot but I have no idea if that was before or after the route was graded. I may not ever make it back out there but am curious how it goes.
By amarius
Oct 21, 2014
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level

Edit - fixed typo, thanks!
By ChrisHau
Oct 21, 2014
Amarius, I think you mean 1625 - lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wc/sugns...
By amarius
Sep 22, 2015
Updated link to the Summersville Lake level

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 22, 2015
The above link makes you redirect elsewhere. Just use the one on the Summersville/Gauley home page. That one takes you directly to the Summersville Lake level. Here is the link:

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...
By zachj
Feb 29, 2016
There are several new routes up on the Aimee's Jugs/Wendy's Jugs wall. I will provide some details here based on the reports I have received, but if someone has better info please expand on this:

5.10a(?) - About 3ft L of Wendy's Jugs - harder moves to first two bolts then great holds on overhanging route to the top. I believe it is 6 bolts to its own set of anchors.

5.8 - About 2 ft R of Aimee's Jugs. I believe it is shorter and fewer bolts than Aimee's Jugs. Has its own set of anchors.

5.10+ - Starts just L from Straight outta Lockmont (5.9) under smallish roof. Climbs up dirty face to cool pockets and small roof. Not sure on the number of bolts, but has its own anchors.

5.11+ - Climbs just L of this new 5.10+. Similar start and then detours L around first bolt. Not sure on number of bolts or anchors.

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