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A nice jaunt up a featured face with good exposure and a variety of interesting movement. A short but somewhat cryptic crux and more than one section that will get your attention make this a worthy route and probably one of the softer 10s at Moore's.
Two bolts get you started on a juggy face. Don't botch the first clip - it'd be a long way down after you've scrambled up to the start.
After getting established, plug what pro you can through the 5.7 or 5.8ish climbing aiming for the roof. This is the same 3-4 foot roof capping the wall across the face of the other hanging garden gully face climbs.
Work your way near the arete and eventually you'll see another bolt in the middle of the face just above the roof. This protects the crux. Clip and have fun puzzling it out. *The crux bolt was recently replaced (2015). A good thing too, as I hear the old one gave up disturbingly easily...
Follow weaknesses in the rock more or less straight up working through a few lesser challenges until you end at some old rusty bolts below the massive First In Flight roof at the top.
Start is hard to find unless you know where it is - almost immediately after you scramble up to the ledge that the hanging garden gully starts on (right side) there is a left leaning 15' or so tall block above to your left with another ledge a bit left. Scramble up between the two and step across to the the block out right (careful a fall would be BAD but it's not hard). A nice flat ledge awaits and a good belay stance with a tree to anchor to. Above you will see two bolts indicating the line on the licheny face.
Note: if you start going up the gully by mistake you'll see some bolts (rather high up) that belong to a different route (Hodadical Master) on the flat face - don't be fooled you can't see the Whipping Post bolts from the ground.
Pro: 3 newly replaced bolts and a full rack up to a Camalot C4 #2 or #3. Long route that wanders a bit so take a fair number of slings.
Top out onto a small ledge just below the big main one with two rusty big ring bolts for an anchor.
Two rope rappel from the anchor or there is a slung block towards the middle of the roof patio area I've used to rap down to the gully in a single rope rap with a 70m. Take care to not rap off the ends. There is also a set of giant but rusty hangers to rap off of on the other side of the large ledge that drops you down to the Hanging Garden and from there you could scramble back down the gully.
By Emil Briggs
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is an overlooked climb. A nice line with interesting moves and probably the longest single pitch at Moore's. Some lichen in spots but would clean up nicely if it saw more traffic.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A fun and long route. Bring smaller cams and tricams, you'll be happy you did.