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This interesting route is located uphill (south) of Boys With Power Toys
, and downhill of Undertow
. Find a leftward traversing line of bolts down low on the pitch and you're there.
After scrambling up the 4th class terrain to the base of the steep wall, clip the first bolt and traverse left past the first 3 bolts. This traverse is a little pumpy but no harder than 5.11.
The crux section begins in getting up to and past the 4th bolt. This section is thin and crimpy, and fairly sustained for 15 feet or so. Feels a bit stiff for its 11d rating. Once getting up to the 5th bolt, interesting face climbing involving very thin feet and smearing, and a mantle or two takes you to the top of the pitch. This upper section is probably no harder than 10b or 10c but it somehow gets your attention in spite of being much easier than the crux.
Bring draws for 8 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 12, 2009
Matt, thanks for the work you are doing with these routes!
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2009
The traverse is fine, although I'm not sure about why it goes up where it does, looked like an easier line above the second bolt. The crux was thin, and theres some definite slab climbing going on in the top half. I didn't like the placement of the last two bolts. The second to last seemed low (would have been nice to rethink the placements when it was rebolted) and the last was too high to clip before making the mantle, and too in your face as you are standing up. Still, it's much nicer to have bomber new bolts than those ring bolt relics.