Whippin' Boy  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 650 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Doc Bayne, Mark Lassiter, Nick Williams - 1993 Season:  year round Submitted By:  andjoely on Sep 24, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Scott reaching for the flake with the pin, pitch 2...

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2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Probably the best route right of mainline. All the pitches are good and it follows a direct line up the good white rock for a ways. It is well protected except perhaps for a few sections of 5.8 but in classic Doc Bayne style you actually have to free climb the harder parts of the route to get up it.

P1: Climb the 5.6 standard variation to the 1st pitch of the OR to the tree.
P2: climb straight up past a fixed pin and a hangerless bolt with a rivet hanger to a left facing corner. Continue climb the corner for a few feet then step right onto the face to climb straight up past 2 bolts to a ledge with a anchor with a bolt backed up by tricams. (5.8+)
p3: Climb above the belay then angle left to cross over dikes. There is good but pretty tricky pro to be had in some of these dikes, with hybrid small cams being useful. Continue past one bolt to a 2 bolt anchor (Note: the Shull-Lambert guide tells you to angle up and right from the belay which is wrong and must be a relic of when people belayed further to the left on the tree ledge) (5.10b)
P4: climb up and left then hand traverse the horizontal weakness out right past bolts. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a seam to a ledge. belay to the left in a horizontal with medium cams or continue straight up a steep seam to another ledge. The moves on this pitch are never hard but the cummulative pump factor gives it the grade. It is very well protected with clean falls into air. (5.11d)
p5: continue up face past a bolt to a belay at a bolt under a flake (5.8)
p6: continue straight up excellent slab climbing (5.9)

Location 

goes through the white rock above the 1st pitch of the OR 60 feet left of the 25 foot long blocky right facing corner below a roof of new perversions

Protection 

cams to #2, nuts, tricams

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Whippin' Boy topo, Whitesides, NC

Bryan crossing over the "dikes"...more like groove...