|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Todd Bol, Stephen Nance|
|Submitted By:||tbol on Jun 27, 2012|
|Comments on Whippers in Time||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Longmont, CO.
Jul 5, 2012
|Now that I have been back to repeat this a few times, it seems more like 12a.|
By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No way around it, this thing is 12a. Not a long route, but there are three hard moves in a row with somewhat bad feet. Small, yet positive crimps on an overhanging arete. Moves feel like V4 climbing. Worthy of a try by all!
For those wanting to have an easier time clipping the first bolt, you can either:
a) use a good undercling/pocket/sidepull out right just before the business. Stand up tall with a foot on the break of the crack and clip, or
b) head straight up the arete via a good long sidepull on the face, foot on a big jug clip it then downclimb and continue out right.
A good addition to this wall.
By Chris Weidner
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Great route! It's nice to have the first bolt stick-clipped, and it's still heads up getting to -- and clipping -- the second bolt. 12a seems right.|