This route is a good line with a little bit of chunky rock. Climb up to the roof (moderate) through the roof (less moderate) and pull the lip of the roof (moderately difficult, crux) and then continue up the crack to the anchors. The protection is solid, but the crack is not very smooth. I did not tape and I ended up bloody. Tape up!
This is the left-most route in the sunnyside crags. About 20 meters to the right of the Cold September Corner area, below a good sized roof, and to the right of it's apex, you can see a hands to wide-hands crack splitting the roof and going up above it to a set of webbing anchors. This is the climb.
A standard rack of nuts and cams to 3.5"
|By Aaron S|
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route was surprisingly moderate given how steep and ominous looking it is. The moves through the roof are fun and unique. There are enough good face holds that it can still b climbed if you arenít solid on hand jamming, although it helps.
One thing to watch out for, as I lowered from the top the rope pressed against a couple cams in the roof and shoved them pretty far back in there. I was able to retrieve them with a couple minutes of work but itís something to watch out for. If my blue camalot had gone another 4 inches in it would have been completely out of reach.
If it weren't for the loose rock this climb would be pretty classic.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Nov 3, 2011
Pretty mellow. Guidebook 10b but those familiar with the angle might say easier. There are enough face holds (jugs) up there to completely skip the jams, but it's fun climbing either way. As Aaron noted, if you lower off this one, you risk losing your cams-better to belay your second up, having them clean the gear, then if you want to TR it it's no problem. The sling anchor on this one is all bleached out as of 11/11-bring some webbing to replace all the sunburnt garbage up there, especially if you're planning to TR from it.