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James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipp...
Sequency problem beginning at around the second to last bolt, with a power move through "the wave" at the top, to a large jug just above the left anchor bolt. Clean fall as overhung as the rock is.
Looking at the west facing side of beer block, the route is all the way over to the right. Not the severly overhung route (which is 5.13), but the one just to the left of that that is only mildly steep until you hit the top of the climb. Climb is #50 in the El Rito online guide.
Bolts to bolt anchors.
|Comments on Whipper Wonderland
|By Dave Wachter|
Feb 26, 2008
Not so hard once you get the crux, but if you don't stick the dynamic move to the top, you're off to whipper wonderland. All air, big air. Don't you dare ask for beta.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2008
Judging by wiggle action on that last bolt, it has definitely seen some action! It stopped my repeated falls so it's obviously still good enough.
|By lance hadfield|
Jun 15, 2010
FA Lance Hadfield this route was graded 5.11d but it might be because I new were the holds were. is the bolt still good or does it need some love?
Aug 9, 2010
I don't think the bolt is an immediate danger but it is a spinner and I think repeated falls have chewed up the threads enough it will be very hard to tighten so replacement is probably in order at some point.