Whipper Wonderland 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Lance Hadfield |
| Submitted By: | Anthony Stout on Apr 20, 2006 |
| |
James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipp...
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Description Sequency problem beginning at around the second to last bolt, with a power move through "the wave" at the top, to a large jug just above the left anchor bolt. Clean fall as overhung as the rock is.
Location Looking at the west facing side of beer block, the route is all the way over to the right. Not the severly overhung route (which is 5.13), but the one just to the left of that that is only mildly steep until you hit the top of the climb. Climb is #50 in the El Rito online guide.
Protection Bolts to bolt anchors.
| Comments on Whipper Wonderland |
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By Dave Wachter
Feb 26, 2008
| Not so hard once you get the crux, but if you don't stick the dynamic move to the top, you're off to whipper wonderland. All air, big air. Don't you dare ask for beta. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2008
rating: 5.12b
| Judging by wiggle action on that last bolt, it has definitely seen some action! It stopped my repeated falls so it's obviously still good enough. |
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010
| FA Lance Hadfield this route was graded 5.11d but it might be because I new were the holds were. is the bolt still good or does it need some love? |
By hunter
Aug 9, 2010
| Lance,
I don't think the bolt is an immediate danger but it is a spinner and I think repeated falls have chewed up the threads enough it will be very hard to tighten so replacement is probably in order at some point.
James |
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