Whiplash 

We climbed Xanadu, traversed through some very rotten rock, underneath Whiplash, then further left (NW), to a grassy gully type area where an aok belay was set up. Whiplash was very good though short, I felt no need for a double set of cams, easy to put in 4 cams in 10-20 feet, yellow Alien to Red Camalot, sewn up. Crack very sharp so tape up! We rapped off of a tree to another tree just SE and down from top of Xanadu. 2 raps total, one rope.

Tape in Eldo????

Go do "Cruising for Bulgar" at SoBo Buttress and then decide if tape isn't useful in Eldo. Actually, I got a little scratched up on Whiplash, but that was more because I didn't reach far enough for a good jam, and tried to pull on a half-in thin hand jam.

It's good while it lasts, but that's 10 feet. There is some serious star inflation/inconsistency on this site.

Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there pretty early, I 'd say it was pretty unusual and very lucky that there weren't lots of people at the base. Anyway, be careful out there folks...and don't assume that routes are always going to be safe just because the pro is good!

This route is more like climbing a choss pile then a 3 star route.... The anchors are set in rubble, and it's a maybe 30 ft....

The climb S&M (7) will put you more or less at the base of this exposed and protection-required fun boulder problem.

My partner and I went up to scope out Whiplash recently, but we couldn't figure out which crack was the actual route. There are two cracks on either side of a 4-foot-wide block, and both had chalk on them. The route on the right is an overhanging crack that looks like wide hands, whereas the route on the left was less steep and looked better for small hands. Does Whiplash follow the crack on the right or the left of the block? Anyone have any info on the non-Whiplash route?

Whiplash is to the left--- with protection to 2.5."
The thing to the right is harder (5.12) and is caled Parlez-Vous Hangdog. I tried it once, and found that 'Oui, je parle hangdog.'

I am with Kara N on which crack to climb. Tony, the one you are talking about is further to the right. The one Kara and I are talking about are 2-3 feet apart. So, I get to the base of the climb and there are 2 cracks. The left is thin hands and more of a layback. The one of the right hands and more of a roof and more interesting. Now it looks like all the photos are of the one on the left. So I guess I did the wrong climb. But it was fun. Great hands the whole 10 feet. I think I placed a #1 and just pulled through. I guess I have to go back and climb the one on the left. Oh and it was not real hard if you know how to jam.