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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Whiplash T 

Whiplash 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Peter Spindloe places a Camalot at the beginning o...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another one of the best winter climbs in Eldo if done from the top of Xanadu. The four-star rating is the overall rating for the two climbs put together. Xanadu is 4 stars on its own, and this is icing on that cake, a classic roof-crack finish that is safe and takes good gear. On it's own, it is a 2 star climb, but to short to garner more on its own.


Protection 

The pro solid and pleantiful. Take a set of 1-2.5" cams: a 1.5" (blue HB Quadcam) + one red Camalot will do the job if you are solid at the grade.
Double up if you want to sew it up overhead as you climb. Gear can be placed overhead at any time.



Photos of Whiplash Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa Meir follows Whiplash (10c) on the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Photo by Tony Bubb, November 2000.
Joseffa Meir follows Whiplash (10c) on the West Ri...
Joseffa Meir dials in on the thin-hands jams near the lip of Whiplash (10c) on Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
Joseffa Meir dials in on the thin-hands jams near ...
Unknown climbers atop of and following on 'Whiplash (5.10c)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Unknown climbers atop of and following on 'Whiplas...
Comments on Whiplash Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 29, 2001

We climbed Xanadu, traversed through some very rotten rock, underneath Whiplash, then further left (NW), to a grassy gully type area where an aok belay was set up. Whiplash was very good though short, I felt no need for a double set of cams, easy to put in 4 cams in 10-20 feet, yellow Alien to Red Camalot, sewn up. Crack very sharp so tape up! We rapped off of a tree to another tree just SE and down from top of Xanadu. 2 raps total, one rope.

By Bryson Slothower
Feb 9, 2002

Tape in Eldo????

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 11, 2002

Go do "Cruising for Bulgar" at SoBo Buttress and then decide if tape isn't useful in Eldo. Actually, I got a little scratched up on Whiplash, but that was more because I didn't reach far enough for a good jam, and tried to pull on a half-in thin hand jam.

By David Jones
Apr 21, 2003

It's good while it lasts, but that's 10 feet. There is some serious star inflation/inconsistency on this site.

By XOG
May 3, 2003

Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there pretty early, I 'd say it was pretty unusual and very lucky that there weren't lots of people at the base. Anyway, be careful out there folks...and don't assume that routes are always going to be safe just because the pro is good!

By S. Kimball
May 7, 2003

This route is more like climbing a choss pile then a 3 star route.... The anchors are set in rubble, and it's a maybe 30 ft....

By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jun 10, 2003

The climb S&M (7) will put you more or less at the base of this exposed and protection-required fun boulder problem.

By Kara N
Jul 29, 2006

My partner and I went up to scope out Whiplash recently, but we couldn't figure out which crack was the actual route. There are two cracks on either side of a 4-foot-wide block, and both had chalk on them. The route on the right is an overhanging crack that looks like wide hands, whereas the route on the left was less steep and looked better for small hands. Does Whiplash follow the crack on the right or the left of the block? Anyone have any info on the non-Whiplash route?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2006

Whiplash is to the left--- with protection to 2.5."
The thing to the right is harder (5.12) and is caled Parlez-Vous Hangdog. I tried it once, and found that 'Oui, je parle hangdog.'

By Dpurf
From: Superior
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I am with Kara N on which crack to climb. Tony, the one you are talking about is further to the right. The one Kara and I are talking about are 2-3 feet apart. So, I get to the base of the climb and there are 2 cracks. The left is thin hands and more of a layback. The one of the right hands and more of a roof and more interesting. Now it looks like all the photos are of the one on the left. So I guess I did the wrong climb. But it was fun. Great hands the whole 10 feet. I think I placed a #1 and just pulled through. I guess I have to go back and climb the one on the left. Oh and it was not real hard if you know how to jam.