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 ADVANCED
The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 

Whiny Bugs 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Gus Glitch
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: ---- on Oct 25, 2012

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Description 

Whiny Bugs is a thoroughly entertaining route from start to finish. It requires a little more precision and focus than your average NRG 5.12-. Expect a thrashing on this route as you decipher the cryptic beta, but once you have the technical movement figured out it should come easily.

Stick clipping either the first or second bolt is recommended since some of the hardest moves are encountered directly off the deck. Slap up a double sidepull compression feature to get established on the beginning slabby face. The beginning of this route is not friendly to shorties. With the beginning moves behind you, donít let up because there are a couple more difficult moves before you reach a no-hands rest.

Clip the third bolt and then figure out an artsy way to move right out a small roof. The route that diverges left is 14a. A couple long reaches between good holds brings you to the fifth. Get ready for the most insecure section of the route which revolves around two right facing sidepulls and limited footholds. Clip the sixth bolt and then cruise through several more bolts of easy lichen covered rock.

Whiny Bugs is a tenuous balancing route requiring some really inventive movement. If you like this sort of style youíll have a blast.

Location 

Far right side of the Travisty Wall. Look for slabby reddish stone at the start and a pile of cheater stones.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchor


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