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This super-fun route climbs the softest stone at Cochiti, which is saying quite a lot. The route was bolted for leading at one time, but the bolts were removed, presumably by hand, when it was determined that the notion of bolts in this rock was just plain crazy. However, the route has recently been resurrected with a new bolted TR anchor. If you can lower yourself to the level of TR-ing, this is a must-do route, and an excellent warmup.
This is the next line left of The Boya.... It climbs the right-most long wall of huge huecos.
TR or free solo. A bolted anchor exists, just below a large Juniper bush. There is also a fixed rope around the truck of the juniper which should be used to back up the bolted anchor, considering the soft nature of this rock. When climbing, note the gaping holes where the lead bolts used to reside. A 50m rope just barely makes it with rope stretch.
|By C Miller|
Dec 6, 2006
This route orginally had 9 bolts.