Start by the tree at the large crack to the right of El Throatchoker Grande. This is the rightmost route on the North face.
Move up the crack placing gear. At the top of the crack, whimper a bit, find some tricky pro, and move up the blank-looking face to a ledge with some large broken blocks. Continue up along the blocks to a series of bolts. The bolts lead to a ramp and then head up and right. A few pieces of gear can be placed between the bolts as needed. Toward the end of the pitch head toward the arete on the right and pull the crux. Finish at the anchor for Centipede Corner.
Descent: Rap down Centipede Corner. A 60m rope is just long enough with rope stretch to get down. If you come up short you can swing to the right a bit and then scramble down.
Just right of El Throatchoker Grande. See overview photo.
Stoppers, singles through #1 Camalot, doubles of #2 and #3 Camalot, single #4 Camalot.
|By jason sartor|
Nov 27, 2010
Found the very first move of this route to be the hardest - until I found that nice foot! Good pro, and bolts a little ways up right where I wanted them. Tony pulled off a nice-sized hold near the top after I came up, so it'd be nice to see how different that section is without whatever he pulled. Good times.
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Hey Jason! Thanks for the input. I got on this last w/e (2 Oct 11) and think the grade has not changed with Tony's cleaning! Yup, that first move is hard, but I also find the move on crimps over the small bulge at the top to be powerful and challenging.