Whine and Bruises 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Carl Coy |
| Submitted By: | Eric Sutton on Aug 1, 2001 |
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description "Whine and Bruises" is the crack between "Fourplay" and "Spiney Norman". It begins from the large heart shaped flakes. The second pitch is the crux and is one of the few climbs of its grade at the tower that is not pure stemming by an RP crack. It is fingers and small hands with an obvious crux but no slouch the rest of the way. Being a slightly bigger crack than most of the 5.12s tends to keep it less grassy even though it is not done a lot. The gear is good and the climbing is better.
Protection Standard tower rack of small nuts to hand size.
| Comments on Whine and Bruises |
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By Sean Nelb
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 24, 2011
| An excellent, thought-provoking route, but contrary to the above description, Whine and Bruises is mostly stemming around a seam so tight that a good chunk of the route is protected by bolts because gear is unavailable. It features continuous thin stemming with few rests and tricky gear placements. 5 bolts and a pin grace the upper two-thirds of the route, with some marginal small gear in between. |
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