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 ADVANCED
North Face & Northwest Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

Whine and Bruises 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Carl Coy
Page Views: 1,637
Submitted By: Eric Sutton on Aug 1, 2001

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Description 

"Whine and Bruises" is the crack between "Fourplay" and "Spiney Norman". It begins from the large heart shaped flakes. The second pitch is the crux and is one of the few climbs of its grade at the tower that is not pure stemming by an RP crack. It is fingers and small hands with an obvious crux but no slouch the rest of the way. Being a slightly bigger crack than most of the 5.12s tends to keep it less grassy even though it is not done a lot. The gear is good and the climbing is better.

Protection 

Standard tower rack of small nuts to hand size.


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By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 24, 2011

An excellent, thought-provoking route, but contrary to the above description, Whine and Bruises is mostly stemming around a seam so tight that a good chunk of the route is protected by bolts because gear is unavailable. It features continuous thin stemming with few rests and tricky gear placements. 5 bolts and a pin grace the upper two-thirds of the route, with some marginal small gear in between.