Wherever I May Roam 

FYI- I saw another party's ropes get stuck in the cracks and on the knobs on the last two rappels, so be cautious as to where your ropes are running.

MM

Great route to practice rope maintenance and multi-pitches at Smith, and to get away from the crowds of the main wall. There's quite a few routes in the same area now, so watch your bolt line (the first time I climbed it I ended up at a rap station for another route and had to down climb around the corner--atop pitch 3 I think?).

Don

I did this route this morning. Some thoughts:

We took 2 60m ropes with us and while it made the rappels a bit easier you can definitely get by with just one. Don't rap back down the route-- we heard that some people have been doing this for some reason. Rap off the opposite side that you came up, then find the chains 10m or so to the climber's left of the route and rap down there. There are anchors everywhere on this wall so it's pretty easy to get down.

I was suckered in to going straight up the line of bolts towards the end of the 3rd pitch, and I wouldn't recommend it. I didn't have any problem downclimbing 20ft. or so to get back on route, but remember that it keeps traversing left.

The belay at the 5th pitch is really cool, and makes for a great picture if the leader has a camera.

Overall this was a lot of fun. Do it in the morning if you want it in the shade. It's a great route to teach someone the ins and outs of multi-pitch climbing.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this route, I did it with two new climbers and it turned out to be an enjoyable few hours in the afternoon sun.
TONS of bolts (the way sport climbing ought to be). I think I took about 16 draws and slings and used them all (including for anchors). A few long slings is nice.

"TONS of bolts (the way sport climbing ought to be)"

if you don't get crap for that comment then the Smith locals have gone soft since I was last there...

If you have two 70 m ropes you can do the rap from the ledge (just below the summit) to the ground.

Great climb. I would recommend linking pitches 2-3 and linking 4-5. The pitches are short otherwise and you definitely get more continuous climbing out of each pitch; there is little to no rope drag when linking. By linking you may also help speed up the line of people behind you that wants to climb (on busy weekends).

P2-3 is 55-60 meters (or shorter) and takes 19 draws if you clip every bolt, though many bolts are so close that you can easily reach back clean many bolts from the next one.

P4-5 is even shorter (40-50 meters?) and takes much less bolts, particularly since you can skip or back clean many of the bolts (yes, they are really close to each other).

Ok route. P3 is definitely the best.

A 60m rope will NOT get you from rappel anchor 2 to rappel anchor 3. You HAVE to use the anchor on the route (top of pitch 3). Otherwise you run the risk of downclimbing some gnar or hanging from a bolt like we did or swinging to some other anchors. All of this after I had already climbed the route twice. Our rope was a year-and-some old and had recently been washed, which is perhaps why it wasn't long enough...?

To add to the above comment.. (Nate Ball) On rap #2, make sure you veer climbers right to the chains(belay station). Do not stop at the set of double bolts. If you try to rap from the bolts that do not have chains, you'll end up short of the next set of chains and you'll be stuck hanging.

Interesting moderate sport route. The name soon starts to make sense once you are on P3. Towards the end of P4, you need to climb over a bulge. You can't see the bolts from below and would wonder where the route goes. You just need to have some faith.

The rating is a bit soft, at least for the last pitch.

This route is well protected and super exposed. Definitely will get your heart racing even if you are a confident 5.10 leader. A must do at Smith. Started early and made made it to top of P3 by the time anyone else had showed up at the base. Might be able to link P4 and P5 with a 70M. We didn't have enough QD's to try it but it looks like it might go.