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Where's the best slab climbing?
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May 15, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Alex Quitiquit wrote:
So I'm enjoying slab leads more and more everyday. I've been mostly climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon and think that the rock is perfect for delicate slab movement and good routes. ex: S-Direct I'm asking where else are there good slab leads?



laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
May 15, 2012
I have to admit, I'm a slab lover too. Living in San Diego for the entireity of my climbing life, I think that's partly due to the amount of time I've spent climbing slab in Joshua Tree and Idyllywild (Suicide Rock).

Gritty JTree slabs are ubiquitous - the sheer quantity makes it really stand out as a slab destination moreso than the the quality. That said, there are some excellent slab routes there too if you seek them out.

Suicide Rock in Idyllwild (the "little" rock across the valley from Tahquitz) is mecca for top quality 1-3 pitch slab and thin face routes from 5.8 to 5.12+ (and those aren't fluffy sport grades either). Expect traditional style bolting and potentially long runouts. These include some of the best slab lines I've climbed.

Both Idyllwild and Joshua Tree are well worth a (combined) trip for any climber, really. Your love for slab would just make such a trip that much more enjoyable.
Adam Kimmerly
Joined Feb 28, 2005
493 points
May 15, 2012
Glacier Point Apron
Suicide
Joshua Tree
Whitehorse Ledge
Tuolumne
Dome Rock (near Needles in the Sierra)
Courtright
Black Velvet Canyon (high angle face/slab)
PRRose
From Boulder
Joined Feb 11, 2006
2 points
May 15, 2012
Stray dog found in rural Alabama w severe mange. T...
rock_fencer wrote:
laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC


I tend to think this ^^^^ ...but I do look forward to comparing WNC to Yosemite and Tuolumne granite in just a few days, for the first time.

Could the rumors be true???
BHMBen
From The Briar Patch
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,691 points
May 15, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the backgrou...
BirminghamBen wrote:
I tend to think this ^^^^ ...but I do look forward to comparing Yosemite and Tuolumne granite in just a few days, for the first time. Could the rumors be true???

Naw...Laurel Knob is cool and all, but I'd still take Tuolumne any day.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
109 points
May 17, 2012
squamish has plenty of easy-hard slab routes ... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
May 17, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Ranchhand wrote:
Northshore of Massachusetts


So true, at least for scary single pitch.

Morning Glory is a good example. 70 feet, three bolts.
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
309 points
May 17, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Have to agree about Dome Rock in the Needles of CA. Also would suggest Cochise Stronghold in the winter. Specifically Out of Towners Dome on the east side if you want to do harder slab climbing. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,598 points
 
May 17, 2012
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fu...
Brendan Blanchard wrote:
70 feet, three bolts.


I'll see your 70 and raise you 30 more :) McPherson Struts

2 bolts and one small cam in 100 feet, and fairly sustained. Were I not so dehydrated from the heat that day, I probably would have peed my pants.

Either way you better like your food spicy. Gotta love them slabs!
Cory
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 25, 2008
2,521 points
May 17, 2012
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
rock_fencer wrote:
laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC


SE granite is where you need to go. I wouldn't add Stone Mtn. to the list. Nate said Stone is like being bored and terrified all at the same time. It fits. Looking Glass, Laurel, and Cedar are some of my favorites. Each one has a different flavor from edging, to water grooves, to eyebrows, and cool face and bulge climbing. Forget about Table Rock SC, too difficult to get into unless you are local.

Tahquitz is more crack climbing, even though its slabby. Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded. It rains way too much in Squamish. I love JTree, but it doesn't offer much in the multi-pitch department.
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,680 points
May 17, 2012
I guess I have to say that my heart lies in Texas and the slabs of Enchanted Rock...

Here is a taste.


James Crump
Joined Dec 17, 2008
200 points
May 17, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Wow, no one mentioning Stoner's Highway, Shakey Flakes, etc, etc - long, classic multi-pitch slabs in Yosemite?

TomCaldwell wrote:
Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded.

It's hard to find a Tuolumne slab with a party on it, most of the routes might get one ascent a year! Tons of less-traveled routes have had all bolts replaced as well. You can find polish, but lots of the rock has great friction, and of course lots is so knobby it's hard to call slab!
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,511 points
May 17, 2012
rockerwaves
Block Tower in the Cathedral Spires near Foxton, C...
Block Tower in the Cathedral Spires near Foxton, Colorado
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Joined Mar 16, 2007
4,261 points
Administrator
May 17, 2012
El Chorro
TomCaldwell wrote:
SE granite is where you need to go. I wouldn't add Stone Mtn. to the list. Nate said Stone is like being bored and terrified all at the same time. It fits. Looking Glass, Laurel, and Cedar are some of my favorites. Each one has a different flavor from edging, to water grooves, to eyebrows, and cool face and bulge climbing. Forget about Table Rock SC, too difficult to get into unless you are local. Tahquitz is more crack climbing, even though its slabby. Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded. It rains way too much in Squamish. I love JTree, but it doesn't offer much in the multi-pitch department.


Yea stone is one of those places that all NC climbers must visit, but I don't recommend it that often, even when people are asking about slab. I go if my partners want to go, but I don't think to take anyone there unless they want to see the bloody streak I left above the tree ledge :)

I'd give a +1 to everything Tom said. Love Tuolomne, but it's nothing like NC. Two different animals all together.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
May 17, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky
War paint is by far the purest slab experience I have ever smeared. RyanJames
Joined Feb 23, 2010
604 points
Aug 15, 2012
JP Rohde wrote:
tuolumne meadows if you like bold climbing. Stifler's mom in little has a superb pitch of slab, two variations on the 5th pitch


+1

That slab was amazing, for slab, and the 11+ variation on the first pitch will have your toes screaming mercy.
Chris Vinson
Joined Jul 9, 2012
67 points
 
Aug 15, 2012
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
The Valley has way bigger and better slabs than Tuolumne, and most of the "slab" up in Tuolumne isn't even true slab since most of the domes are covered in knobs. The North Face Apron of Middle Cathedral is probably one of my favorite slabs, although North Dome and the GPA are also pretty sweet. Most of it's too hard and runout for me though, so I haven't climbed a lot of friction routes around here.

Suicide Rock (across from Tahquitz) is also exceptional and historic and probably the best chunk of rock in southern California.

Joshua Tree is great because you can get some relatively high angle and blank slabs that go at moderate grades because of the excellent friction. But yeah, it doesn't really offer the same experience as getting 10+ pitches up the GPA.

Whitney Portal, Dome Rock (Kern River), Courtright, Tollhouse, Hammer/Cal Domes, all offer great slab.

I haven't climbed that much outside of California as you can probably tell...

Pitch 7 - Wild dykes
Pitch 7 - Wild dykes



Pitch 1 - A Little Nukey
Pitch 1 - A Little Nukey
Bryan G
From Yosemite
Joined Nov 17, 2007
4,609 points
Administrator
Aug 15, 2012
5b upper pitch in the clouds
And after you do all of those, come check out the granite ocean in Switzerland

Neverending slabs in sector Oelberg of the Handegg...
Neverending slabs in sector Oelberg of the Handegg area.... here the first, 6b pitch of Siebenschläfer (accessed via the five pitch route Engeliweg).
Dan Flynn
From MA
Joined May 5, 2009
4,287 points
Aug 16, 2012
Crux Move
Pitch 4 - Spectacular slab climbing!
Pitch 4 - Spectacular slab climbing!
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Aug 16, 2012
Slick Rock put in
I'm a slab climber. I still love it even though I'm often mocked for my romance by my more steeply inclined friends. First, it's laughable the South Platte is high on anyones list. It's frankly mighty bad over all with a few exceptional exceptions. I've climbed granite slabs all over the Western world and I can say with confidence the best is Grimsel Pass, Switzerland. If you enjoy big slabs of perfect rock and some that gets mighty steep I'd suggest saving some money and camping out there for a few weeks. And don't forget the rack, you'll need it. Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Joined Jun 12, 2004
1,803 points
Aug 16, 2012
Phil Lauffen wrote:
[picture of crest jewel, north dome]


yes! I didn't do the direct but traversed into the normal CJ. Slab as far as you can see below you, and as far as you can see above you. Seems to go on forever and I remember at one point asking if I was on a treadmill slab. It's wild!

Suicide at Tahquitz has the headiest slab I've ever done– and I haven't even done any of the R rated ones. Tuolumne and yosemite has it's fair share as well.
generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Joined Mar 2, 2008
16 points
Aug 16, 2012
SPlatte.

What about Big Rock Candy Mtn?! The ultimate slab.
KDog
Joined Jun 25, 2010
118 points
Administrator
Aug 16, 2012
Photo by Marisa Fienup.
Another shout-out for Dome Rock!
Red Mushrooms (5.10+), Dome Rock
Red Mushrooms (5.10+), Dome Rock
Matthew Fienup
From Ventura, CA
Joined Feb 18, 2006
7,359 points
Aug 16, 2012
The East slabs of the San rafael Swell should cure you of your slab fetish. Long routes and long run-outs on sandstone. 3 1/2 hours from SLC. D. Durrant
From Utah, USA
Joined Aug 17, 2007
2,403 points
 


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