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Where's the best slab climbing?
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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
May 15, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Alex Quitiquit wrote:
So I'm enjoying slab leads more and more everyday. I've been mostly climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon and think that the rock is perfect for delicate slab movement and good routes. ex: S-Direct I'm asking where else are there good slab leads?



laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC


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By Adam Kimmerly
May 15, 2012

I have to admit, I'm a slab lover too. Living in San Diego for the entireity of my climbing life, I think that's partly due to the amount of time I've spent climbing slab in Joshua Tree and Idyllywild (Suicide Rock).

Gritty JTree slabs are ubiquitous - the sheer quantity makes it really stand out as a slab destination moreso than the the quality. That said, there are some excellent slab routes there too if you seek them out.

Suicide Rock in Idyllwild (the "little" rock across the valley from Tahquitz) is mecca for top quality 1-3 pitch slab and thin face routes from 5.8 to 5.12+ (and those aren't fluffy sport grades either). Expect traditional style bolting and potentially long runouts. These include some of the best slab lines I've climbed.

Both Idyllwild and Joshua Tree are well worth a (combined) trip for any climber, really. Your love for slab would just make such a trip that much more enjoyable.


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By PRRose
From Boulder
May 15, 2012

Glacier Point Apron
Suicide
Joshua Tree
Whitehorse Ledge
Tuolumne
Dome Rock (near Needles in the Sierra)
Courtright
Black Velvet Canyon (high angle face/slab)


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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
May 15, 2012
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'

rock_fencer wrote:
laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC


I tend to think this ^^^^ ...but I do look forward to comparing WNC to Yosemite and Tuolumne granite in just a few days, for the first time.

Could the rumors be true???


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
May 15, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

BirminghamBen wrote:
I tend to think this ^^^^ ...but I do look forward to comparing Yosemite and Tuolumne granite in just a few days, for the first time. Could the rumors be true???

Naw...Laurel Knob is cool and all, but I'd still take Tuolumne any day.


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By bearbreeder
May 17, 2012

squamish has plenty of easy-hard slab routes ...


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
May 17, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Ranchhand wrote:
Northshore of Massachusetts


So true, at least for scary single pitch.

Morning Glory is a good example. 70 feet, three bolts.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 17, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Have to agree about Dome Rock in the Needles of CA. Also would suggest Cochise Stronghold in the winter. Specifically Out of Towners Dome on the east side if you want to do harder slab climbing.


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
May 17, 2012
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Brendan Blanchard wrote:
70 feet, three bolts.


I'll see your 70 and raise you 30 more :) McPherson Struts

2 bolts and one small cam in 100 feet, and fairly sustained. Were I not so dehydrated from the heat that day, I probably would have peed my pants.

Either way you better like your food spicy. Gotta love them slabs!


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
May 17, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

rock_fencer wrote:
laurel knob NC and any of the other Plutons around NC, Table Rock SC


SE granite is where you need to go. I wouldn't add Stone Mtn. to the list. Nate said Stone is like being bored and terrified all at the same time. It fits. Looking Glass, Laurel, and Cedar are some of my favorites. Each one has a different flavor from edging, to water grooves, to eyebrows, and cool face and bulge climbing. Forget about Table Rock SC, too difficult to get into unless you are local.

Tahquitz is more crack climbing, even though its slabby. Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded. It rains way too much in Squamish. I love JTree, but it doesn't offer much in the multi-pitch department.


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By James Crump
May 17, 2012

I guess I have to say that my heart lies in Texas and the slabs of Enchanted Rock...

Here is a taste.



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By Greg Barnes
May 17, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

Wow, no one mentioning Stoner's Highway, Shakey Flakes, etc, etc - long, classic multi-pitch slabs in Yosemite?

TomCaldwell wrote:
Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded.

It's hard to find a Tuolumne slab with a party on it, most of the routes might get one ascent a year! Tons of less-traveled routes have had all bolts replaced as well. You can find polish, but lots of the rock has great friction, and of course lots is so knobby it's hard to call slab!


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
May 17, 2012
rockerwaves

Block Tower in the Cathedral Spires near Foxton, Colorado <br />Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Block Tower in the Cathedral Spires near Foxton, Colorado
Photo: Olaf Mitchell


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 17, 2012
El Chorro

TomCaldwell wrote:
SE granite is where you need to go. I wouldn't add Stone Mtn. to the list. Nate said Stone is like being bored and terrified all at the same time. It fits. Looking Glass, Laurel, and Cedar are some of my favorites. Each one has a different flavor from edging, to water grooves, to eyebrows, and cool face and bulge climbing. Forget about Table Rock SC, too difficult to get into unless you are local. Tahquitz is more crack climbing, even though its slabby. Tuolumne is pretty, but polished and crowded. It rains way too much in Squamish. I love JTree, but it doesn't offer much in the multi-pitch department.


Yea stone is one of those places that all NC climbers must visit, but I don't recommend it that often, even when people are asking about slab. I go if my partners want to go, but I don't think to take anyone there unless they want to see the bloody streak I left above the tree ledge :)

I'd give a +1 to everything Tom said. Love Tuolomne, but it's nothing like NC. Two different animals all together.


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By RyanJames
May 17, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky

War paint is by far the purest slab experience I have ever smeared.


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By Chris Vinson
Aug 15, 2012

JP Rohde wrote:
tuolumne meadows if you like bold climbing. Stifler's mom in little has a superb pitch of slab, two variations on the 5th pitch


+1

That slab was amazing, for slab, and the 11+ variation on the first pitch will have your toes screaming mercy.


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Aug 15, 2012
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

The Valley has way bigger and better slabs than Tuolumne, and most of the "slab" up in Tuolumne isn't even true slab since most of the domes are covered in knobs. The North Face Apron of Middle Cathedral is probably one of my favorite slabs, although North Dome and the GPA are also pretty sweet. Most of it's too hard and runout for me though, so I haven't climbed a lot of friction routes around here.

Suicide Rock (across from Tahquitz) is also exceptional and historic and probably the best chunk of rock in southern California.

Joshua Tree is great because you can get some relatively high angle and blank slabs that go at moderate grades because of the excellent friction. But yeah, it doesn't really offer the same experience as getting 10+ pitches up the GPA.

Whitney Portal, Dome Rock (Kern River), Courtright, Tollhouse, Hammer/Cal Domes, all offer great slab.

I haven't climbed that much outside of California as you can probably tell...

Pitch 7 - Wild dykes
Pitch 7 - Wild dykes



Pitch 1 - A Little Nukey
Pitch 1 - A Little Nukey


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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From MA
Aug 15, 2012
5b upper pitch in the clouds

And after you do all of those, come check out the granite ocean in Switzerland

Neverending slabs in sector Oelberg of the Handegg area.... here the first, 6b pitch of Siebenschläfer (accessed via the five pitch route Engeliweg).
Neverending slabs in sector Oelberg of the Handegg area.... here the first, 6b pitch of Siebenschläfer (accessed via the five pitch route Engeliweg).


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Aug 16, 2012
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

Pitch 4 - Spectacular slab climbing!
Pitch 4 - Spectacular slab climbing!


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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Aug 16, 2012
Slick Rock put in

I'm a slab climber. I still love it even though I'm often mocked for my romance by my more steeply inclined friends. First, it's laughable the South Platte is high on anyones list. It's frankly mighty bad over all with a few exceptional exceptions. I've climbed granite slabs all over the Western world and I can say with confidence the best is Grimsel Pass, Switzerland. If you enjoy big slabs of perfect rock and some that gets mighty steep I'd suggest saving some money and camping out there for a few weeks. And don't forget the rack, you'll need it.


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By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 16, 2012

Phil Lauffen wrote:
[picture of crest jewel, north dome]


yes! I didn't do the direct but traversed into the normal CJ. Slab as far as you can see below you, and as far as you can see above you. Seems to go on forever and I remember at one point asking if I was on a treadmill slab. It's wild!

Suicide at Tahquitz has the headiest slab I've ever done– and I haven't even done any of the R rated ones. Tuolumne and yosemite has it's fair share as well.


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By KDog
Aug 16, 2012

SPlatte.

What about Big Rock Candy Mtn?! The ultimate slab.


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From Ventura, CA
Aug 16, 2012
Photo by Marisa Fienup.

Another shout-out for Dome Rock!

Red Mushrooms (5.10+), Dome Rock
Red Mushrooms (5.10+), Dome Rock


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By D. Durrant
From Utah, USA
Aug 16, 2012

The East slabs of the San rafael Swell should cure you of your slab fetish. Long routes and long run-outs on sandstone. 3 1/2 hours from SLC.


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