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By jasoncm
Jun 4, 2012
Hey people,

Jason from the Northern Territory, Australia. I have been climbing now for a little over 12 months. Can lead around 5.10d sport and only just getting started in trad so climbing up to 5.6.

What i'm really looking for is what I should be looking at doing to improve in all areas. I hurt my shoulder last year from over training/should impingement so i'm worried about over-training. I have concentrated lately more on training core and antagonist muscles.

I tend to outdoors every weekend and up to twice a week in a local gym. But the gym is really poor so I tend not to enjoy myself there. Should I build myself a bouldering wall? I have read a fair bit about climbers that climb the grades too quickly injuring ligaments especially in their fingers, so thats what puts me off building one.

My real aim is to build my trad confidence so I can visit the USA and Canada next year and climb some of your amazing routes in places such as Squamish, Tahoe, red rocks, J-Tree.

So what would you suggest to build the climber inside of me?

Cheers

Jason

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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Jun 4, 2012
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
I tend to think it's best to get strong slowly in climbing (at least for me it is). But after a couple years you can probably get crazy with the training with less risk of injury.

I would suggest trying to climb more outside. Focusing on static climbing to build technique.

You can also train endurance out the wazoo without much risk of injury.

Having good technique and good endurance will go a long way to supplement the strength that you build slowly.

If you're having most of your trouble with crux moves, then maybe boulder more.

Replace J Tree with Yosemite in my opinion.

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