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Where to crag near Monterey?
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By Joan Lee
Aug 26, 2014
Me
We wanted to get a dive in and since salt water makes your hands soft would be totally up for some moderate cragging (sport but preferably trad) . We got the book but I'm looking for some recommendations from people who know the area. The climbs near Saratoga are like the last resort, I got beta on those so skip that.

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Aug 26, 2014
Which book do you have?

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By Joan Lee
Aug 26, 2014
Me
Bay area rock by Jim Thornburg. I just saw a couple of new books came out too just recently. A lot of bouldering is mixed in some of them though.

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By Joan Lee
Aug 26, 2014
Me
My boyfriend likes long alpine and aide and I like to crag and multipitch. We voted for a good mix! Unfortunately we never have enough time to really investigate the area we are at. This is our "second rounds" in the Bay area and very much psyched for "Rocktober" in Yosemite. Although I am being realistic about my abilities and desire to put so much dedicated work into big walling. Although I figured spending couple days on the wall practicing and setting up the ledge is quite doable and will be enjoyable for me and good practice for Ryan.

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Aug 26, 2014
Your options are very limited near Monterey. Pinnacles National Park is worth checking out for a day trip. So-so climbing on conglomerate rock in an unusual and pretty area. Only about an hour and a half drive to the West Pinnacles and it will have the most climbing near Monterey.

mountainproject.com/v/west-sid...

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By Joan Lee
Aug 26, 2014
Me
How solid is the rock? Any crag in particular that is good? It would be nice to kill two birds with the same stone....

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Aug 26, 2014
You'll have to explore to find out. Use the MP star system for finding the good crags/climbs. Time for you to research.

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By Joan Lee
Aug 26, 2014
Me
Frank, don't patronize. I do my research and asking questions on this site is part of it. I compare my notes. What do you suppose people just post spray and douchery here? Well they do mostly....but sipping through all bs like a projector you may find that nugget of knowledge you need! The Citadel looks fun. How about a van parking in the vicinity ? Is it cosher to just sleep in the van near the crag?

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By Joan Lee
Aug 27, 2014
Me
Alright in 4 months we only got two warnings and one ticket. I say it still beats rent! Hehehe

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Aug 27, 2014
Eleanor. Of course.

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By Maurice Chaunders
Aug 27, 2014
Colombian Crack
Skip west pinnacles. East side has more solid rock. Check out the monolith and the discovery wall. Also look into Machete Rige if you are up for adventurous multi pitch. Rock quality in pinnacles is fairly sketchy, at least in appearance, which makes the routes seem harder, sometimes.

You can also boulder at Pardington cove, about 75 miles south of Monterey. The rock is super sharp and hard, and the location is outstanding. Not a good choice for soft divers hands.

Castle rock I'm Santa is a bouldering spot but worth checking out.

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By Joan Lee
Aug 27, 2014
Me
It looks like the crags on the East side are kinda dirty and covered with lichen. I would rather take worse quality rock over that. That shit gets into your eyes and you cant trust your feet on it at all. One question though : what is the most popular wall at the pinnacles? We will go from there...

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By Maurice Chaunders
Aug 28, 2014
Colombian Crack
Damn it! I just got trolled! Well, for anyone else reading this thread, it's not lichen that's the issue. The rock is brittle conglomerate volcano poopoo. So holds come off and things break. Not so much at the monolith, which has 10 or so routes, 5.9-5.11 or so, or at the discovery wall, which has te same kind of routers spread over a longer distance. Both are good places to hang at the base and set up for a few hours.

Screw you, trollenor

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By Joan Lee
Aug 28, 2014
Me
Not at all! With the limited info this site provides and no info at all in the book I have I am legitely looking for beta. I can't find a book on just the pinnacles either. The rock covered in lichen is the worst and that's what MP is describing the East side as " covered in lichen" . My boyfriend went once with his friend and says he was not impressed with the quality of rock and it was super run out that's why I'm seeking advice from the locals. I have never been there so we will visit it at least once. Being in this area only for a short period of time so hopefully we will have a good experience.

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Aug 28, 2014
At the BRC
Elena, I haven't been to Pinnacles in 20 years, but don't recall it being too hard to find the Discovery Wall. Check out this site for more info.
eb.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/sac...
I liked Pinnacles, a really pretty area. I remember drinking beer in the parking lot while watching the vultures roost at twilight. Dozens of them already on the branches, one more would land,they would shuffle over, the last one in line would fall off the branch, squawk, circle around, land on a different branch and start the cycle again.
The rock is similar to Maple or El Rito, maybe a little more loose, although routes on the Monolith are mostly quite solid.
If you feel adventurous check out the Salathe route on the Hand or Shake and Bake on the Balconies.
The area is historic, pretty sure the Cragmont Climbing Club climbed here in the 50s.

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By Joan Lee
Aug 28, 2014
Me
^^^ perfect! And conveniently the directions are from Stanford! Thanx Mark! This is just what I needed. Now others on MP can benefit from this little guide booklet too!

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By Savanna
From Monterey, CA
Sep 7, 2014
Climbing with Lynn Hill at the New
Hey, I just moved to Monterey and am looking for some cragging as well. Let me know if you need a partner to go exploring with!

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By Joan Lee
Sep 7, 2014
Me
Savanna wrote:
Hey, I just moved to Monterey and am looking for some cragging as well. Let me know if you need a partner to go exploring with!

Ye, ye! We are intending on diving there quite a bit too in the next few months. We visited this bouldering area called Panther Beach. I like it. The setting is beautiful and you get to climb barefoot! The rock is pretty sandy and some pieces are falling off in places but I heard it gets better in the winter when the waves wash off like 10 ft of sand and more solid rock is exposed. Castle Rock park is a OK for a little bit of cragging. Depending on where you are coming from you may enjoy it but it's no world class. This info on the Pinnacles seems pretty sweet (we have not made it back there yet, hehe my boyfriend does not wanna go there ), but we will go! Stop by planet Granite someday in Sunnyvale so we can coordinate. Monterey area is beautiful and one of my very favorites! You are very lucky to move here. :)

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By Savanna
From Monterey, CA
Sep 7, 2014
Climbing with Lynn Hill at the New
I went to Pinnacles last week to scope out the climbing- it was waaaaay too hot to do anything. The climbing looks pretty interesting- it's all volcanic, sort of reminds me of Maple Canyon. I'll probably be making weekend trips there over the winter. Sunnyvale is too far for me, but shoot me a message if you're back in Monterey!

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By Joan Lee
Sep 7, 2014
Me
Savanna wrote:
I went to Pinnacles last week to scope out the climbing- it was waaaaay too hot to do anything. The climbing looks pretty interesting- it's all volcanic, sort of reminds me of Maple Canyon. I'll probably be making weekend trips there over the winter. Sunnyvale is too far for me, but shoot me a message if you're back in Monterey!

Sweet! For sure!

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