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Where the Wild Things Aren't 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and Walt Wehner, 2000
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Ed cruises along the small holds after the crux of...

Description 

Nice and sustained route, with technical movement. Crux is lower on the route, and once past the mono, the worst is over. However, hold on, because it doesn't completely let up! The guidebook notes a difficult fourth clip, however, none in our party thought it was terribly difficult, though it may be if you are not solid at the grade.

Location 

See climb #24 on attached map photo.

Protection 

6 bolts to two bolt anchor.


Photos of Where the Wild Things Aren't Slideshow Add Photo
Ian on some ugly slopers Where The Wild Things Are...
Ian on some ugly slopers Where The Wild Things Are...
Ian Hanna ready for crux clip! Where The Wild thin...
Ian Hanna ready for crux clip! Where The Wild thin...

Comments on Where the Wild Things Aren't Add Comment
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By Wa3lt
Nov 26, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hi folks - Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. Can't remember exactly. We originally thought it was 12a, but that proved considerably too stiff once the route got a few ascents (and some chalk). People have told me that the route is underbolted, and if anyone feels the need to add a bolt or two, this constitutes the FA party's official permission.

-Walt Wehner
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2006

Hey Walt, I don't remember the route feeling underbolted, the cruxes were all well protected, and the only run out part was on easy ground at the top. Great route with fun moves.

Mike
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is an excellent route, probably my favorite in the Grotto. I found it to be a bit low in the grade. It didn't seem much harder than Berger's Bakeshop. My girlfriend thought it was 10d or 11a, but she has small fingers and I'm sure she got two fingers in the 'mono'. This didn't seem the least bit runout.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I had a lot of trouble clipping the 4th bolt (making the clip was the crux of the climb?). My partner had no trouble- it seems like having your feet in the correct places is crucial.

Other than that, I thought the bolt spacing was adequate. For all the toughest moves, the bolts are right where you want them.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I agree with George; clipping the fourth bolt seemed noticeably harder than the crux moves. It seems like if the bolt were a foot lower or so, you would be able to clip off of some relatively good holds instead of a mono with poor feet. Definitely a shame because the moves on this route are awesome and the rock is bullet.