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Where should I climb over Spring Break?
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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 9, 2014

Rumney abd PWay CAN be great..but with so much snow/ice this season I don't know...Seepage is a problem.
Personally, I have climbed at tons of NH early in the year and also been washed out plenty.
I would check with neclimbs.com for more up to date info,,they have a conditions section


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 9, 2014

john strand wrote:
Rumney abd PWay CAN be great..but with so much snow/ice this season I don't know...Seepage is a problem. Personally, I have climbed at tons of NH early in the year and also been washed out plenty. I would check with neclimbs.com for more up to date info,,they have a conditions section


agree with this and will toss in that unless it warms up pretty soon, a trip to rumney in mid march will probably end up being pretty uncomfortable


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Feb 9, 2014

Ben Thesing wrote:
Anyone have any personal experience at Rumney or bouldering at Pawtuckaway in early March? That's where my buddies and I are headed (we're a mix of Granite and Bay staters)..I'm worried about the snow and or leakage.


Mid-March in Rumney can be surprisingly awesome, given a stretch of warmish/sunny weather. I've had some really good days there at that time of year. With leaves off the trees, many of the cliffs and cliff bases get tons of sun exposure, so 40s and sunny can feel quite nice, especially after a long winter. Seepage and runoff can be an issue, but there is always lots of dry rock to be found too, especially on the harder/steeper stuff.

That said, I don't think I'd ever plan a trip there in March. It is more of an opportunistic weekend thing if you live nearby and the forecast is promising. Much of the time, the weather is heinous for rock climbing at that time of year. If you do take a trip to that area in march, your most reliable option would be to pack all the gear...rock shoes in case it is warm, ice tools in case it is cold (lots of ice up in Franconia, or over in Conway), skis in case it is dumping snow, and whiskey in case it rains.


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By Nick Grant
From Natick, MA
Feb 10, 2014
A photo of me on Across the Universe taken by the Strandman back in '83.

Mid-March? I'd say no way do you want to be in New Hampshire. The weather is just too dodgy it could easily snow a foot. I wouldn't plan to go to the Gunks either. As Horace Greeley said, "Go South, young man!"


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By andyelliott
Feb 10, 2014
Red River Gorge.

dont go to rumney in early march for a trip. its still winter and it could snow a lot, and even if it doesnt snow, theres too much snow on the ground already for it to be good and it aint melting any time soon.

Dont go to the red either. go even more south. red will be too cold also.


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 10, 2014
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

I've had lots of mid-march breaks (courtesy of a Ph.D. at Umass). It's unreliable everywhere on the east coast, and it's like that all the time. This seems like a cold year, too. Been snowed out of the New the day after climbing Supercrack in a tank top, roped up at Looking Glass in 28 degrees and shivered/convulsed my way up The Nose, and sat through three inches of rain in Brevard...all on separate trips. My most memorable east coast spring break included: Pinnacle Gully on Mt. Washington one day, rained out the next (rain!!! at 6,000!!!), more rain and a bail to my house in Massachusetts for a BBQ, then a couple of days sunny climbing at the Gunks highlighted by a Son of Easy O onsight in a Hawaiian shirt.
Those were good times.

I guess I'm saying, if you got free time and a good partner then go for it and see what happens. Make a memory.


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 10, 2014
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

Nick Grant wrote:
As Horace Greeley said, "Go South, young man!"


He was something of an abolitionist, no? If so, then take over the confederacy you yankee!


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 10, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Nick Grant wrote:
Mid-March? I'd say no way do you want to be in New Hampshire. The weather is just too dodgy it could easily snow a foot. I wouldn't plan to go to the Gunks either. As Horace Greeley said, "Go South, young man!"


They're skiing the best snow of the spring in Tuckermans ravine about then! No way north until late May! This wicked winter also has the Red in risk by late March....looks like you need to be southwest in deserts, Joshua Tree, maybe Red Rocks in Vegas,,but doubt if much in southeast is going to thaw out fast this spring. Good luck.


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By Thomas Carson
From Mechanicsburg, PA
Feb 12, 2014
on the Grand, 2012

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
looks like you need to be southwest in deserts, Joshua Tree, maybe Red Rocks in Vegas


It's funny cause just yesterday I was asking around to see if anybody is free to climb during my spring break. Everybody is going to Red Rocks. haha


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 12, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Thomas Carson wrote:
It's funny cause just yesterday I was asking around to see if anybody is free to climb during my spring break. Everybody is going to Red Rocks. haha


Good climbers think smart.....that's why.


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By Ben Thesing
Feb 12, 2014
Piece of Cake     Jimmy Cliff

JCM wrote:
Mid-March in Rumney can be surprisingly awesome, given a stretch of warmish/sunny weather. I've had some really good days there at that time of year. With leaves off the trees, many of the cliffs and cliff bases get tons of sun exposure, so 40s and sunny can feel quite nice, especially after a long winter. Seepage and runoff can be an issue, but there is always lots of dry rock to be found too, especially on the harder/steeper stuff. That said, I don't think I'd ever plan a trip there in March. It is more of an opportunistic weekend thing if you live nearby and the forecast is promising. Much of the time, the weather is heinous for rock climbing at that time of year. If you do take a trip to that area in march, your most reliable option would be to pack all the gear...rock shoes in case it is warm, ice tools in case it is cold (lots of ice up in Franconia, or over in Conway), skis in case it is dumping snow, and whiskey in case it rains.


Lucky for me I'm only about 40 minutes from both Rumney and P-Way. So if the weather is too rough up North we'll head down South!


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By Ben Thesing
Feb 12, 2014
Piece of Cake     Jimmy Cliff

john strand wrote:
Rumney abd PWay CAN be great..but with so much snow/ice this season I don't know...Seepage is a problem. Personally, I have climbed at tons of NH early in the year and also been washed out plenty. I would check with neclimbs.com for more up to date info,,they have a conditions section


Thanks John. I'll play it by ear; thankfully I'm close!


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By Thomas Carson
From Mechanicsburg, PA
Feb 18, 2014
on the Grand, 2012

Is anybody looking for a climbing partner between March 15th and 23rd? I can't find anybody around here.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Feb 18, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

john strand wrote:
Rumney abd PWay CAN be great..but with so much snow/ice this season I don't know...Seepage is a problem. Personally, I have climbed at tons of NH early in the year and also been washed out plenty. I would check with neclimbs.com for more up to date info,,they have a conditions section


I would second Strand here, except to add that some cliffs are generally dry no matter what the issues might be with seepage. Main Cliff (at least the center routes) is almost always dry. In over 10 years, I can remember Underdog only wet once. We still climbed it, though.

Also, look at Sundown Ledge. Those routes are almost never wet. They're all 5.11 and up, but when that's your only dry option, it's fun to go bolt to bolt on those climbs.


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