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The Great Black North
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 

Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Prep: Darryl Roth/Dan Durland, FFA: Mark Anderson, 4 Nov. 11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 979
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011

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Beginning the vert redpoint crux.

Description 

WPASC is the old Darryl Roth/Dan Durland project listed as "Reamer" in Sharp End's "Shelf Road Rock". This unassuming line demands healthy quantities of brains and brawn, beginning with a thuggish roof problem and finishing with the most difficult stretch of vertical wall climbing yet freed at Shelf Road. The rock here is absolutely flawless, despite the understated appearance of the line, and solitude is guaranteed.

A few easy slab moves lead to a good stance at the crook of the looming roof. Utilize a shallow but incut 2-finger pocket to reach the lip, followed by burly moves and an improbable huck to get established on the hanging panel. After a mediocre shake at a horizontal seam, work up to a big undercling and the redpoint crux. Teeter precariously past a pair of side-pulls--using polished bumps for feet--fighting the dull pump to reach a shallow crack. Grope over the subtle bulge through a sea of black lichen-covered slopers and prickly knobs to arrive at a much needed shake on the high slab. Shallow pockets and sharp crimps work up the short headwall to the chains.


Location 

This is the furthest right route in the Dreamer Pit, beginning immediately right of Dreamer or the second route right of Pincher. Climb over an obvious low roof to a vertical wall, finishing at a set of long black chains. For full value, avoid the arete on the far right.


Protection 

8 bolts, 2BA.



Photos of Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") Slideshow Add Photo
Coming out the low roof.
Coming out the low roof.
Pulling into the crux roof.
Pulling into the crux roof.
Working into pitiful sidepulls.
Working into pitiful sidepulls.
Comments on Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2011

Thanks to Darryl Roth & Dan Durland for the vision and hardware for this line. Apparently Roth spied the line and drilled the bolt holes, and Dan sunk in the hardware, eventually one-hanging the route before moving on to other projects. I attempted this in the Fall of 2010, managing only to break a key hold just above the lip of the roof. I came back last month and was able to suss another sequence after literally 2 hours of putzing around at the second bolt.

By rob pizem
Nov 8, 2011

Nice job, Mark!!

By Darryl Roth
Nov 8, 2011

Most excellent send, Mark. Let the climbing world never underestimate the power of a man with a full time job, a wife, and a beautiful new baby.