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Fortress Wall
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Where Lizards Dare T 

Where Lizards Dare 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b A2 [details]
FA: P1: Ed Pearsol, '77. P2: Greg Smith, '84.
Season: Faces S by SE
Page Views: 3,078
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Climber: Kevin Wagner
Photo Credit: Alex Mitchell

Description 

A great pitch in its own right and adds height to whatever initial climb you use to approach the starting ledge. A Red River Classic. The standard climb is 5.9+, and a second pitch of aid (reportedly A2/C2) can be done to reach the top of the rock.

Location 

Where Lizards Dare is the obvious "flip-flop dihedral" starting from the ledge at just below the mid-height of the cliff, above the climb Snake. THe climb starts as a shallow right-facing corner and as the wall on the left reclines and on the right inclines, the climb crosses a flux point where the dihedral becomes left-facing.

Protection 

The climb takes gear from small nuts to hand sized. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.


Photos of Where Lizards Dare Slideshow Add Photo
Nice
Nice
Where Lizards Dare, from the ground... <br />great exposure... Casey is the climber in the middle of the picture...
BETA PHOTO: Where Lizards Dare, from the ground...
great expos...
Casey wondering how to get his fingers in the crack...
Casey wondering how to get his fingers in the crac...
Get out your bags of tricks.
Get out your bags of tricks.
Nice
Nice
Run out of tricks?  Sometimes brute force is necessary.
Run out of tricks? Sometimes brute force is neces...

Comments on Where Lizards Dare Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 17, 2007

This spectacular climb can easily be combined with Calypso III to make a nice 100 Ft. climb. A 60M rope will get you back to the deck in 1 rap...with 1 Ft. of rope to spare.
By max seigal
From: boulder
Apr 27, 2008

this is an excellent line, however it is very stiff for a 5.9+, in fact it is harder than several 10a's at the red. Maybe it is finger size dependent (mine hardly fit). either way it is definetely worth doing.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Apr 7, 2010

Stiff for the grade is an understatement. Felt as hard as The Winter 10+ at the Gunks, which I just did the previous weekend.
A spectacular 10c pitch, very sustained.
By robert pepper
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2

"Blue Runner" 5.9 is highly recommended as pitch one, then walk 25 yards climber left to the WLD belay.
5.9+ = 5.10c
A physical technical and memorable second.
By Harrison Dreves
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2

The finger crack (if you can call it that), looks a lot better from the ground.
As a solid 5.9 trad leader, I definitely felt that this pushed my limits.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2010

5.9+ is a pretty famous sandbag grade at the gorge. Try 'Jungle Beat' too... another 5.9+.
By Chad Wagner
Jul 10, 2012

The ole RRG 9+! what a fantastic adventure. After climbing 8+ and 9+ in the Red, most places feel soft. Fantastic sandbagging goin on in the early days. Jungle Beat is the classic multipitch in the Red, next to the Quest. Watch those 8+ grades. They are sure to pack a punch.