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Where is that video of the climbing rope getting severed? ! ?
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Dec 11, 2012
So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere..

PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)
danielwhore
Joined Sep 19, 2010
78 points
Administrator
Dec 11, 2012
danielwhore wrote:
So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere.. PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)

It is on Petzl's website, they were the ones who filmed it.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,003 points
Dec 11, 2012
Hey! I just looked all over their site, can't find it. I contacted them to ask where I can find it.. I will post it once I do but in the meantime, anybody know which vid I'm talking about? post the link if you do :) danielwhore
Joined Sep 19, 2010
78 points
Dec 11, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day at Smug's
I pretty much core shot a rope jugging one pitch on it (2 people) when I ran it over an edge near the anchor. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
310 points
Administrator
Dec 11, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Here.

The vid is at the bottom.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,181 points
Dec 11, 2012
The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending. JVW
Joined Nov 15, 2010
86 points
Dec 11, 2012
My buddy and I core shot a brand new 10mm static line by one person jugging 100 ft of line running over an edge. Be careful. Steve86
Joined Jul 17, 2011
10 points
Dec 11, 2012
JVW wrote:
The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact,


FYI - "kern" is the core. "Mantle" is the sheath. Modern ropes are kernmantle construction; older types e.g. Goldline are called "laid" ropes.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,268 points
Dec 11, 2012
Thanks for the lesson gunkiemike! Threes strands of kern left, mantle sheared through. JVW
Joined Nov 15, 2010
86 points
Administrator
Dec 11, 2012
JVW wrote:
The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending.

So what did you do? Did you rap back down?
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,003 points
Dec 11, 2012
Jake Jones!! you found it :) thanks so much danielwhore
Joined Sep 19, 2010
78 points
Administrator
Dec 11, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
You're welcome. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,181 points
Nov 14, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Way up on pointy little devil
Hey I am looking for this video too i saw it a while ago and have searched petzl's website and can't find it any more. If any has a link to it or knows where it's at i would love to see it again. Kirtis
From Rapid City, SD
Joined Mar 27, 2011
401 points


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