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The Nuns
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Where have the Wild Things Gone T 

Where have the Wild Things Gone 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Romain Vogler, Christian Schwarz - Aug. 6, 1985
Page Views: 4,000
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 27, 2003

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Paul on the first pitch of Where have the Wild Thi...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a great route on the West face of the Nuns. Pitch 1- Good hands up the right side of a pillar for 20 feet leads to a steep jam/lieback corner to a two bolt belay. 5.11Pitch 2- Interesting and good climbing follows thin cracks to a gear belay at the notch. 5.11Pitch 3- Go north on a ledge to anchors and climb 5.9 crack to the summit.

Descent- 1 short rap off the top to the anchors at the beginning of pitch 3, and 1 60 meter rap to the ground from there.


1 set TCU's, 1 set stoppers, 2- .5 camalots, 4- .75 camalots to #2 camalots, 1 #3 camalot.

Photos of Where have the Wild Things Gone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The calcite covered dihedral.
The calcite covered dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Finkelstein on the first pitch of Where have ...
Seth Finkelstein on the first pitch of Where have ...

Comments on Where have the Wild Things Gone Add Comment
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By Alison Conrad
Sep 28, 2007

P1: Strenuous slightly overhanging in a corner need xtra .75 and #1 BD cams. The anchor is an uncomfortable hanging belay on two nuts in crack, a pin, and star driven bolt. Anchor could be replaced. Bring xtra .75 to back up anchor. Great pitch! Felt harder than the grade.
P2: Scary and chossy. Follows discontiuous flakes and edges. Take triples of small cams and nuts unless you feel comfortable running out on sketchy rock. We broke it up in two pitches because my partner ran out of small stuff for the upper part.
Would recommend doing the first pitch, but would not repeat the 2nd pitch.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 27, 2007

I thought the second pitch of this was classic. It was more broken rock than the first pitch, but not chossy and much more interesting than the first pitch. I had one set of TCU's, a few medium cams and stoppers for that pitch. I was nervous about not having enough gear, but the single set and stoppers ended up being perfect. I was well protected for the whole pitch.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2009

Has the star-drive in this been replaced yet?
By Wyatt Payne
From: Littleton CO
Oct 3, 2011

Starts getting sun at top of 1st pitch ~11:30. First pitch feels tough for the grade. Highly asthetic line.

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