Where Egos Sore  5.11c

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Chris Barnes, 1989 Submitted By:  Jason Halladay on Jun 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

If you've climbed everything else on Elephant Rock or are into hard, thin mantle moves, certainly check out Where Egos Sore.

The route is mostly cruiser 5.10- climbing before and after the "5.11c mantle move" at the obvious bulge about 2/3rds of the way up.

Climb up near-vertical rock through some tricky moves on many holds that seem to face the wrong way passing two of the bomber homemade hangers to the good ledge. From the good ledge, run it out for thirty feet up and right before heading back left on the faint arete and the third bolt. You could get some gear protection to mitigate the ground-fall potential between the second and third bolt but the climbing in this section is pretty easy.

Clip a fourth bolt while moving left into a small pod and a good rest before the crux bulge. Move up, clip the perfectly placed fifth bolt at the bulge. Paw and grunt your way through the crux mantle move on slopers and poor feet. Let out a sigh of relief and cruise 5.10- terrain past a couple more bolts to the anchor. A single 70 meter rope will get you down but just barely--tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Location 

The far right end of the north side of Elephant Rock. Look for the big, bomber homemade hangers up a green face.

Protection 

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor. It appeared the crack between bolts 2 and 3 would take a #1 or #2 camalot and/or some smaller cams. While there is a huge run-out between bolts 2 and 3, the bolts are tastefully placed and right where you need them.

A single 70m rope will work but just barely.