Where Eagles Dare
||Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, January 1976 FFA: (1st pitch): John Long , December 1979 FA: (2nd pitch): Jonny Woodward, April 1984|
|Page Views: ||1,081|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jul 9, 2002|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Brian about to pull out to the roof.
Located on the West face of the Sentinel, this is near the left side of the face and 10' right of a right leaning chimney system.
P1) Boulder up a thin crack/lieback (crux) to start (it may be easier to climb high and skip the pro on this section) which widens and starts to curve right. Near the top of this crack it peters out and difficult face moves past a bolt lead to a bolted anchor in a dish. It is possible to rap off here, but the climb continues.
P2) From the belay climb right then up past three bolts until under a large roof. Pull the roof and continue up the crack as it eases in difficulty and ends on the top.
A walk off is located to the climber's right, down slabs until one reaches the edge of the rock, after which one can go left (east) around the entire formation or right (west) downclimbing through a corridor past the climb Bikini Whale.
This is yet another excellent route on an excellent formation. The first pitch alone is worth doing with some nice moves straight away and a surprise for the finish, but the second pitch is also worthy and together they make another route that should not be missed.
4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" especially thin for 1st pitch. Bolted anchor at end of 1st pitch.
May 12, 2015
A long time ago, maybe 2001, the anchor at the end of the first pitch wasn't so great. Old 1/4ers and a tangle of bleached webbing stick in memory as one I thought could fail while I rapped. Perhaps it's been updated or it was the wrong anchor station?