Where Buzzards Dare 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Michael Crowder, Jody Jacobs - 1996 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Jan 5, 2008 |
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Description Starting under an overhanging bulge protected by two bolts, pull through a crack system to a slopey ledge (crux). Extra points if you can make the ledge move without grabbing the pine tree or its roots. Surmount another overhang with balancy moves, then continue up on easier ground to the top.
Location Starts about 20' right of Buzzard's Breath.
Protection Mixed; two bolts protect the pumpy start. From the ledge on, a fairly complete rack is necessary. Bolted anchors.
| Comments on Where Buzzards Dare |
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By Joey Wolfe Feb 7, 2008
| Are you sure about those bolts, I was there a month ago and took a look at what i believed was this route and it had two shiny new bolts protecting(just left of) the right leaning crack. I'll look again next time. |
By Joey Wolfe Feb 8, 2008
| Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, maybe 85% sure. I'll give it another look and get a pic of this wall to help clear things up. In any case I hope you are right, after looking at the pic on M.Crowder's site I sure hope nobody retro bolted it, seems to be a trend lately. |
By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Feb 10, 2008
| I've corresponded with Jody Jacobs, who confirms that this route is not Arbor Day. If anyone recognizes this by the description and knows what it is, let me know! |
By RadDawg From: NE, GA Aug 18, 2008
| I looked at that last weekend and you had to be on "Where Buzzards Dare" 5.11 2 bolts protect an overhanging section to a tree ledge, then up past a triangle shaped formation followed by a bolt, then runout for a ways and up to a bolt anchor at the top of the wall. |
By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Aug 19, 2008
| Based on the note from Jody (RadDawg), I've modified the name and grade of the route. I thought it had a couple of fairly tough sections, but didn't feel like 5.11. Of course, maybe we were off route . . . Anyway, thanks for the clarification. |
By JohnWesely From: Athens, GA Jan 23, 2011
| The pine tree is now fairly dead and hanging off the cliff. |
By Homer Patterson Dec 12, 2011
| The dead tree has been sawed off but is now hanging out of another live tree and is in the perfect place to hit a head on if someone pops off making the move at the second bolt. I saw two people on top rope knock the backs of their heads on the tree. |
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