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The Buzzard Wall
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Where Buzzards Dare 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Michael Crowder, Jody Jacobs - 1996
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Starting under an overhanging bulge protected by two bolts, pull through a crack system to a slopey ledge (crux). Extra points if you can make the ledge move without grabbing the pine tree or its roots. Surmount another overhang with balancy moves, then continue up on easier ground to the top.


Location 

Starts about 20' right of Buzzard's Breath.


Protection 

Mixed; two bolts protect the pumpy start. From the ledge on, a fairly complete rack is necessary. Bolted anchors.



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By Joey Wolfe
Feb 7, 2008

Are you sure about those bolts, I was there a month ago and took a look at what i believed was this route and it had two shiny new bolts protecting(just left of) the right leaning crack. I'll look again next time.

By Joey Wolfe
Feb 8, 2008

Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, maybe 85% sure. I'll give it another look and get a pic of this wall to help clear things up. In any case I hope you are right, after looking at the pic on M.Crowder's site I sure hope nobody retro bolted it, seems to be a trend lately.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Feb 10, 2008

I've corresponded with Jody Jacobs, who confirms that this route is not Arbor Day. If anyone recognizes this by the description and knows what it is, let me know!

By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Aug 18, 2008

I looked at that last weekend and you had to be on "Where Buzzards Dare" 5.11

2 bolts protect an overhanging section to a tree ledge, then up past a triangle shaped formation followed by a bolt, then runout for a ways and up to a bolt anchor at the top of the wall.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 19, 2008

Based on the note from Jody (RadDawg), I've modified the name and grade of the route. I thought it had a couple of fairly tough sections, but didn't feel like 5.11. Of course, maybe we were off route . . . Anyway, thanks for the clarification.

By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Jan 23, 2011

The pine tree is now fairly dead and hanging off the cliff.

By Homer Patterson
Dec 12, 2011

The dead tree has been sawed off but is now hanging out of another live tree and is in the perfect place to hit a head on if someone pops off making the move at the second bolt. I saw two people on top rope knock the backs of their heads on the tree.