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When to use screamers
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Nov 13, 2012
RABBLE RABBLE RABBLE Goodhue
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 21, 2008
28 points
Nov 13, 2012
No screamers, save your money. Hmmm. If a screamer keeps that suspect piece from blowing, it may save you a lot of money, and an agonizing rehab.

A screamer could - could make the difference between a grounder or walking away. Why not stack the odds more in your favor?

The quesion goes a bit further than just screamer versus no screamer. Yates, on their website, suggests that Zipper Screamers are better than their Standard Screamers in ice.

My typical ice climbing rack has 3 to 6 Zipper Screamers and 3 or so Standard Screamers. My typical rock climbing rack has 2 or 3 Standard Screamers.

Climb Ohn. Wally
Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
people use screamers in rock climbing? superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
superkick wrote:
people use screamers in rock climbing?


They're somewhat popular with aid climbers.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
300 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Creek Climbing
not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing? coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
551 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
coop wrote:
not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing?


Trango Neoclassic Bent Gate Carabiner on the rope side of my screamers. Great price and easy clipping for when I'm desperate, which feels like every clip. :o)
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,512 points
Nov 13, 2012
superkick wrote:
people use screamers in rock climbing?


Yup, great for mankey pins at the gunks...or anywhere for that matter
johnthethird
Joined Jan 6, 2012
13 points
Nov 13, 2012
johnthethird wrote:
Yup, great for mankey pins at the gunks...or anywhere for that matter


lol, I was just gonna say that Gunkers have everything piece of gear made under the sun on their racks
T Roper
From DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,061 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: piney creek canyon
coop wrote:
not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing?


For draws on rock and ice i've always loved the mammut element
Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
Joined Dec 13, 2009
15 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Richard88 wrote:
We're all gonna die!


only losers die.
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Nov 13, 2012
when you want to impress the neighbors. richie
From englewood, tn
Joined May 10, 2010
40 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The Face of Uncertainty My First Ice Climb! Spiral...
Screamer drop test:
Here

Will Gadd Ice Climbing Vid:
Vid


He explains his gear in the video including sharp thingy's, slinging icicles and clippy things.

Focus on the work house of the rack.
419
From Denver
Joined May 26, 2010
705 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me again!
richie wrote:
when you want to impress the neighbors.


+1


Or your mom.
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
58 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: J TREE
BLAH.......


BLAH>>>


BLAH.....

Just climb ice like the Carr Boys......

1st rule, don't fall......

2nd, rule stopping to place screws is a waste of time & energy......
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
932 points
Nov 13, 2012
Sally and Ben should never go climbing together, lest the world devolve into semantic nonsense. TBlom
Joined Jun 29, 2004
366 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
419 wrote:
He explains his gear in the video including sharp thingy's, slinging icicles and clippy things. Focus on the work house of the rack.


haha Will totally called that coming off. Not suprising!
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,512 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamweaver
What's all this talk about ice for?

My entire sport rack is made up of screamers.
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
21 points
Nov 18, 2012
Great feedback. After going over all the info, my preference will be for Zippers on the bottom and more slings up top. And now I finally have it into my head which is a positive and negative placement. Thank you Ben.
And as far as spending the money on screamers - My friend was belaying a guy at Lincoln last week who took a lead fall, first screw came out, screamer deployed and he didn't hit the deck. He's bruised, but walking, so 20 bucks is cheap!
Sally G.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2010
30 points
Nov 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Takin flight on the 'sky swing'
I will screamer the top anchor piece as the first piece of pro if it looks like the leader will factor-two. A partner blew at screamer 9/10ths (I had a single wrap of athletic tape holding the ears from flopping which is coincidentally where the ripping stopped) from a 35ft fall onto the anchor.
I caught him and got yanked up,then the screamer activated which took his weight and wailed in my ear. When his weight momentarily came off me while the screamer blew l thought he had come off altogether! It was, however, a much beneficial use of a screamer.
Stiles
From the Mountains
Joined May 21, 2003
793 points
Administrator
Nov 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: El Chorro
I'm glad someone finally posted a freakin' picture. I've placed three screws in my entire life and even I know what angle to put them in. Can't believe it took that long for everyone to agree that they all know as well. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Nov 18, 2012
Screamers are superb and should be on everyones trad rack. I carry two year round to use on marginal or blind placements. With a fall factor of 1 the forces on an anchor are about 11Kn, but by using a screamer they fall by over half to 5Kn. That could save your life. Whenever the Ice is just a bit marginal I use one, I use them on old pegs, or rusty bolts or anything else that just makes me wonder - "how good is that really?"
From Yates:
yatesgear.com/climbing/screame...

Really they dont weigh a lot, they are not that pricey and to be honest a couple go a long long way.
funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Nov 18, 2012
funkyicemonkey wrote:
With a fall factor of 1 the forces on an anchor are about 11Kn, but by using a screamer they fall by over half to 5Kn.



This is so incorrect it's amazing you haven't killed yourself yet. Stop giving out advice when you don't know what he hell you're talking about. The force of a factor one fall "could" be 11kn depending on the weight of the climber, the type of rope used, type of fall, etc. etc. etc. A screamer DOES NOT determine the final KN force of the fall nor does it limit it to 5KN. Sheesh.

BTW...those numbers in that link you posted have been shown to be wrong by several people who have performed exhaustive testing. Google is your friend.
Reginald McChufferton
Joined Sep 24, 2012
1 points
Nov 18, 2012
i scream when i fall ... im a screamer =( bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,783 points
Nov 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Sally G. wrote:
My friend was belaying a guy at Lincoln last week who took a lead fall, first screw came out, screamer deployed and he didn't hit the deck. He's bruised, but walking, so 20 bucks is cheap!


Screamers are good, but it's a bad call, IMHO, putting faith in them and placing shitty screws. I'm not saying I'm not guilty of this - but when I did have a shitty placement I was well within my limits. Learn and practice the art of downclimbing if you can't find a good screw placement or if it's way over your head. Perhaps if the guy didn't waste his energy to place a shitty screw he could have either climbed higher to get a better placement or down climbed back to the ground.
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
393 points
Nov 20, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
doligo wrote:
Screamers are good, but it's a bad call, IMHO, putting faith in them and placing shitty screws. I'm not saying I'm not guilty of this - but when I did have a shitty placement I was well within my limits. Learn and practice the art of downclimbing if you can't find a good screw placement or if it's way over your head. Perhaps if the guy didn't waste his energy to place a shitty screw he could have either climbed higher to get a better placement or down climbed back to the ground.


All good in theory.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points


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