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When to retire gear? (Espec. webbing)
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Oct 6, 2011
In the Grand Tetons 2010.
So I know some of you still climb on stiff Friends and have an original 1985 Woody Keen Fudge harness, but what I am interested in is what you have retired over the years and whether you've ever retired something just due to outright age or a frayed belay loop or kinked stem wire (You know who you are!) rather than having it literally disintegrate around your goobied body.

Speaking for myself, I really have only retired ropes and majorly frayed webbing and a few biners half sawn. I have a Blue Water helmet made in 2000 that seems to be getting brittle and my main harness dates from 2006 but seems to be going strong. My other harness is a pure webbing harness from 1998 that has a burly belay loop. It has seen moderate use but seems to be fine. Barring UV damage, will oxidation be enough reason to retire it?

I even still use those dropped biners. Yes, I know I am going to die.

What say ye?
Dominion Rognstad
From Houston. From Boone, NC
Joined Jul 15, 2011
434 points
Oct 6, 2011
on Pack Animal Direct
Hmmm, this week I replaced the runners on a few of my draws, for no good reason other than that they were fuzzed up enough that I didn't trust them any more. They were probably good. Probably. ChrisJoosse
Joined Jun 8, 2009
84 points
Oct 6, 2011
I retire ropes and slings and if cam slings on your rigid friends are sketch back them up with cord. Otherwise I think so long as u feel ok about it you r probably just fine. But if it's kinda old ish don't place it for your first couple peices. martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
228 points
Oct 6, 2011
Most of the gear makers seem to agree on a five year lifespan for ropes, draws and webbing (and harnesses). Black Diamond and Metolius will replace the slings on their cams for a fee, I've done that twice. mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2005
65 points
Oct 10, 2011
I have a question How old is your car? Do we need to replace the seat belts every five years? There not stored out of the UV light in a cool space in fact the interior of a car gets really hot. juzzzme
From Denver, Colorado
Joined Apr 29, 2009
0 points
Oct 11, 2011
juzzzme wrote:
I have a question How old is your car? Do we need to replace the seat belts every five years? There not stored out of the UV light in a cool space in fact the interior of a car gets really hot.

Wow. Good point.
Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Oct 11, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!
GrandeCorda wrote:
BS points. ^^^^^^^ Real Points (climbing) Different webbing Smaller Webbing Different Stitching - Smaller Ground in dirt Abrasive rock contact Other elements Climbing = multiple loading Car = One time use (really) Car seat belts have expiration dates. It's true, they do. Child car seat = Life span is one child


+1

The webbing used for automobile seat belts is polyester, not nylon. Apples to oranges.
JesseT
From Portland, OR
Joined May 5, 2011
114 points


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