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When to retire gear? (Espec. webbing)
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By Dominion Rognstad
From Houston. From Boone, NC
Oct 6, 2011
In the Grand Tetons 2010.

So I know some of you still climb on stiff Friends and have an original 1985 Woody Keen Fudge harness, but what I am interested in is what you have retired over the years and whether you've ever retired something just due to outright age or a frayed belay loop or kinked stem wire (You know who you are!) rather than having it literally disintegrate around your goobied body.

Speaking for myself, I really have only retired ropes and majorly frayed webbing and a few biners half sawn. I have a Blue Water helmet made in 2000 that seems to be getting brittle and my main harness dates from 2006 but seems to be going strong. My other harness is a pure webbing harness from 1998 that has a burly belay loop. It has seen moderate use but seems to be fine. Barring UV damage, will oxidation be enough reason to retire it?

I even still use those dropped biners. Yes, I know I am going to die.

What say ye?


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By ChrisJoosse
Oct 6, 2011
on Pack Animal Direct

Hmmm, this week I replaced the runners on a few of my draws, for no good reason other than that they were fuzzed up enough that I didn't trust them any more. They were probably good. Probably.


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 6, 2011

I retire ropes and slings and if cam slings on your rigid friends are sketch back them up with cord. Otherwise I think so long as u feel ok about it you r probably just fine. But if it's kinda old ish don't place it for your first couple peices.


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By mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Oct 6, 2011

Most of the gear makers seem to agree on a five year lifespan for ropes, draws and webbing (and harnesses). Black Diamond and Metolius will replace the slings on their cams for a fee, I've done that twice.


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By juzzzme
Oct 10, 2011

I have a question How old is your car? Do we need to replace the seat belts every five years? There not stored out of the UV light in a cool space in fact the interior of a car gets really hot.


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By Bob Dobalina
Oct 11, 2011

juzzzme wrote:
I have a question How old is your car? Do we need to replace the seat belts every five years? There not stored out of the UV light in a cool space in fact the interior of a car gets really hot.

Wow. Good point.


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Oct 11, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

GrandeCorda wrote:
BS points. ^^^^^^^ Real Points (climbing) Different webbing Smaller Webbing Different Stitching - Smaller Ground in dirt Abrasive rock contact Other elements Climbing = multiple loading Car = One time use (really) Car seat belts have expiration dates. It's true, they do. Child car seat = Life span is one child


+1

The webbing used for automobile seat belts is polyester, not nylon. Apples to oranges.


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