When Time Has No Meaning 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 27 May 2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | When Dry |
| Submitted By: | James Garrett on May 29, 2008 |
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The arete in profile below Franziska following the...
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Private Property MORE INFO >>>
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description When Time Has No Meaning starts low on the arete just to the right of the waterfall on the upper terrace. Look for a bolt low down about 5m above the start. This route merges with the 1991 Tim Broughton climb called Gastronomy Crack toward the top, but does not alter that line. I recently spoke with Tim and he was excited to hear that this was added. His route traverses under the large roof and then after reaching the left side of the crack system, he did cut back right and continued to the top via the arete (same finish as for When Time Has No Meaning). This is contrary to the guidebook topo, incidentally. He also said others had placed the two-bolt belay/rappel station.
Pitch #1: Continue directly up the sharp arete, run out at times, passing about 4 bolts. The leader will encounter a fixed piton up high, which is how GC finishes. Remain on the arete until the top of the crag clipping a bolt (placed as a directional/belay) and traverse to the Gastronomy Crack Ledge two-bolt belay to the right. 5.7, 50m.
Location Rappel straight down from the exisitng anchors into a gully with one 60m rope. Be very careful not to send scree or rocks down onto Ira's waterfall terraces and rock walls. 20m down the gully, you will be again at the foot of the climb.
Protection QDs, Set of Camalots to #2 including small Nuts
4 bolts and original belay chains.
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