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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

When the Whip Comes Down 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, '84
Page Views: 2,420
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jan 1, 2005
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Bob D on the FA.

Description 

According to Bob's book, this route was one of the first in the canyon.

It starts in an overhanging dihedral just left of the beautiful lichen-covered wall that hosts "Sitting in Limbo" and "Cassandra".

The crux comes at the beginning and involves powerful stemming up the overhanging corner to reach a gigantic pocket. The route above climbes up a pleasant lichen-covered slab.

This route was originally climbed on gear, which was very bold, considering the nature of the rock. It has been retrobolted...by whom, I don't know...and now should be a popular route. The climbing is excellent, and the rock is very good too.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By NEH
Dec 11, 2010

One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. Highly recommended!

By Brent Butler
From: Del Norte, CO
May 15, 2012

A great route that seems to rarely see traffic. I didn't do much stemming and instead opted for crimpy lieback. The slab above is very enjoyable with a balancy redpoint crux coming right before the top shelf.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Onsighted! Yes! I brushed all the holds on my way down. Hop on this route and help with the cleaning process, def worth doing.