When the Whip Comes Down
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According to Bob's book, this route was one of the first in the canyon.
It starts in an overhanging dihedral just left of the beautiful lichen-covered wall that hosts "Sitting in Limbo
" and "Cassandra
The crux comes at the beginning and involves powerful stemming up the overhanging corner to reach a gigantic pocket. The route above climbes up a pleasant lichen-covered slab.
This route was originally climbed on gear, which was very bold, considering the nature of the rock. It has been retrobolted...by whom, I don't know...and now should be a popular route. The climbing is excellent, and the rock is very good too.
Dec 11, 2010
One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. Highly recommended!
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2012
A great route that seems to rarely see traffic. I didn't do much stemming and instead opted for crimpy lieback. The slab above is very enjoyable with a balancy redpoint crux coming right before the top shelf.
By William Mondragon
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Onsighted! Yes! I brushed all the holds on my way down. Hop on this route and help with the cleaning process, def worth doing.