Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
When rapping off, do you ever depend on a friction knot to hold you?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Baumer
From Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2012
Easy Lieback

I generally prefer to rappel rather than put unnecessary wear on the anchors, but I don't climb overhanging sport routes. In the situation you describe, lowering probably makes the most sense.

But to answer your question: yes, I do depend on a friction knot to hold me if I need to clear my rope, clean gear that my partner couldn't get, that sort of thing. I use a Sterling hollow block prusik (more friction than a standard cordalette prusik...two wraps and it's good) clipped to my belay loop on an extended rappel. Works great. But it's probably best to use a couple of leg wraps to back it up.


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 4, 2012

1. ill lower off routes that are overhanging if possible ... swinging back and forth on rap aint the safest way IMO

2. if i do rap off, i use my alpine smart, now it aint hands free, but it locks enough to hold on lightly on the rope

3. if i really am wearing out the fixed gear too much, i have a few quicklinks ill put on if it looks like itll benefit the anchors

IMO screw all the "ethics" (really a few people complaining) about fixed gear ... gear is cheap and ill replace it if needed ... lowering is often (not always) safe than rapping and life/health aint cheap


FLAG
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Jesus Christ, if you are trying to clean an overhung route just have your belayer lower you off.

OK?

Now DIE THREAD DIE.


FLAG
By Eamon Doyle
From La Canada, CA
Oct 4, 2012
Headshot

Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I'm only rapping off at the end of the day (or use of a particular climb) when the rope is on fixed gear. Great info on the leg wraps, since I have never used those. Cheers!


FLAG
By Jake D.
From Northeast
Oct 4, 2012

Eamon Doyle wrote:
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I'm only rapping off at the end of the day (or use of a particular climb) when the rope is on fixed gear. Great info on the leg wraps, since I have never used those. Cheers!


:sigh:


FLAG
By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 4, 2012
Stabby

Eamon Doyle wrote:
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I'm only rapping off at the end of the day (or use of a particular climb) when the rope is on fixed gear. Great info on the leg wraps, since I have never used those. Cheers!

Leave it to a gd ginger


FLAG
By Jacob Neathawk
From Nederland, CO
Oct 5, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
FAIL. If the anchos is back over the lip, it is safer to lower. If you rap, you are subjecting one small portion of the rope to an edge. You are bouncing up and down on a dynamic rope. THAT is sawing. If you lower, you are never subjecting one section of the rope to wear for more than a second. The ethics will be different in every area. If it makes sense to rap, I usually try to. It does put less wear on the anchors. But there are many reasons why I choose to lower instead. Steep route, wandering route, I'm tired (which is usually the case as I am usually only cleaning a route at the end of the day).


I have to disagree with your FAIL assessment. How often is the lip of the climb a super sharp edge that would potentially cut the rope? I was more talking about a slabby section that the rope grinds over as you are lowering which shortens the life of the rope. This scenario happened to me this past summer climbing the route Touch Monkey in the flatirons. The first few times i climbed this and lowered off, my rope got super frayed. I then wised up and started rapping which corrected the problem. Were you also tired when you replied to my post? you seemed a little grumpy


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Oct 5, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

agree with jacob. even if there is a sharp lip, when you rap you don't necessarily have to bounce around (like a first time gym climber). you can rap down fairly smoothly and not really have an issue. on the other hand, if you are getting lowered, the weighted rope running over the edge can be like a potato peeler.


FLAG
By S. Neoh
Oct 5, 2012

To the OP - leg wraps and fireman's backup from your partner should be good enough, not to mention he/she can help pull you towards that draw which is just annoyingly far to reach! A tip; you might want to clean the lowest draw before cleaning the second lowest (if you can reach) to reduce the swing, especially if very overhung and if the swing might put you in contact with a tree or boulder.

I have rap cleaned an overhanging sport route which has anchors set back from a lip. There will be some bouncing since one needs to work a bit and gyrate to reach the draws. The next time cleaning the same route, I elected to get lowered.


FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2012
Bocan

S. Neoh wrote:
To the OP - leg wraps and fireman's backup from your partner should be good enough.


haha but I wouldn't at the same time. Ouch!!!


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Oct 6, 2012
smiley face

The firemans could be a problem, or rather, not really give you anything in this case.


FLAG
By Xan Calonne
From Studio City, Ca
Oct 6, 2012

Assuming you are a LA-area climber and hitting Malibu Creek/Echo Cliffs standard practice (as I understand it) is to have the leader build an anchor up top, have followers TR through said anchor, then have the final climber clean on the way up, untie and rethread, then get lowered off. This mitigates wear on the chains to a reasonable degree, simplifies cleaning, and is safer (assuming good communication between climber and belayer). Unless you are being super considerate of the route-equippers (which, by the nature of your question does not seem to be the primary concern) I cannot think of a situation in the local areas wear rapping would be required. Have fun and be safe! Best, Xan


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2