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L to R R to L Alpha
This is an old style climb in an old style area across from Jimmy Cliff. The moves up are similar to the climbs on the right side of the main cliff. The climbing is a little bit dirty. This climb offers ramps and some wonderful rock protrusions. Plenty of exposure on it. High up moves to start with are high up. A wonderful view after the climb.
Opposite broken rock wall besides the gully right of 'Lonesome Dove'. We belayed off of a large oak tree below the vegetated tree covered rock ramp, thanks mat. Walk off right after solo climbing up a short summit wall. A lot of dead trees because the summit area was burned very much by the million dollar fire.
5 bolts and 2 pins rappel bolted. First bolt requires awkward face climbing up too a foot ledge long reach clip. After way up on the vegetation ramp. Long run out from third bolt to the slab (crux) bolt. Getting to clip this bolt also requires awkward balancing moves. It'll require four more bolts to remove these risks. A 1.5-cam fits before the pin (it came out on second ascent and I missed the pin ) a 4 cam fits between 3rd and 4th bolt. Then it is a safer, better protected ascent but still risky. The top 20ft. ramp (5.0) has no protection and before it is a army surplus ring piton 15ft above the last bolt that is not deeply set.