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 ADVANCED
(3) Phoenix
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carabid T 
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 
Fred On Air S 
Hissing Llamas S 
JT's Route S 
License To Bolt S 
Phoenix S 
When Llamas Bolt S 

When Llamas Bolt 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

A worhty climb up the arete on the far left side of the Phoenix Wall.

Climb easy rock past a few bolts to the arete. The bolts follow the left side of the arete but the easier climbing stays on the right. A hard reach from crimps hits at the top of the arete.


Location 

Just left of Hissing Llamas

Protection 

bolts


Comments on When Llamas Bolt Add Comment
Show which comments
By 419
From: Denver
Sep 11, 2011

Stay on the left side of the arete for the entire top section, there is one two finger pocket on the right side used to setup for the big move. In general, It is hard 2 finger pocket climbing with a few friction feet then a big move into a jug finish. Sandbag.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
May 3, 2012

contrived and horribly over-bolted
By donggua
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Jun 19, 2013

feels harder than an 11a staying entirely on the left side of the arete. the mini pockets are extremely hard for feet, maybe i just need to improve my footwork, but definitely sandbag for me
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013

Tough pocket climbing that is great fun for Smith. I don't think it's overbolted or contrived. Check it out on TR after climbing Scary Llamas 5.8 to the right of it. Watch out for bees in the pockets mid/late summer...
By Kemper Brightman
From: Walla Walla, WA
Aug 18, 2013

I'm seconding Bryan's comment about the bees. The "wasp pocket" turns this climb from questionably worth it to absolutely not worth it in my book.
By hwendlandt
Oct 22, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Every time I've seen donggua comment on something here, he says the climb is about two grades easier than it is rated; so when he says this is harder than 11a, truth.
I watched three people climb this totally different, then added my own variation, staying on the right of the arÍte until the little undergoochie. Every way was harder than 11a to me, but that's pretty awesome variety for a climb!
By Alan Zhan
From: Seattle, WA
4 hours ago

If you stay on the left face and use only the slopey arete it definitely feels harder than 11a... or maybe I just suck at pockets.
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