When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH!  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, TR, 30 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Old School Submitted By:  Trad Nanny on Jun 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Follow the crack straight or stay left and travers...

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Description 

This is a two part climb. Part one (When Life Gives You Lemons...) heads up easy terrain left of the crack to a nice stance, then traverse right with a tricky sequence, to a BOMBER hand jam, take it to the top.

Part two (SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH!) heads up using the crack and big holds on the left but goes straight up the crack utilizing a wicked one knuckle pinky jam and a heinous pinch on the arete to the same BOMBER hand jam as part one.

Location 

Back side of The Frigate, find Bowspirit and to your right is another buttress with a right angling crack.

Protection 

Standard rack. Optional #1 Ball-Nuts for part one and a micro cam for the crux piece on both parts. Solo up the left side of the buttress to set TR.

Photos of When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! Slideshow

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Leading Part One.

In the heinous pinky lock.