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Pinky Pillar Wall
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Tea For Two T,TR 
When In Doubt, Pinkies Out T,TR 

When In Doubt, Pinkies Out 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer (Morning) Winter (Evening)
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Nov 2, 2013

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Pinky Pillar Wall

When In Doubt, Pinkies Out (5.8...

Description 

Obvious seam, cliff left, that leads straight up the pillar and over a small overhang.

The first half of the route is mellow. The crux is pulling the roof. The last half mellows out again.

Gear options are plentiful but only as good as the rock. Luckily, there is a bolted anchor from which to Top Rope. This line is quite fun and could be a great route with some traffic to clean off some of the choss rock.


Location 

Cliff right on the Pinky Pillar frontside.

Look for the obvious seam leading up the cliff face.

Rappel down the backside off the chains.


Protection 

NC trad rack. Fixed Anchor (bolted)

Great protection options but rock quality is non-inspiring... personal rule of thumb is 'don't test it on purpose'. A little more traffic will clean up the route. Top Roping is an option available to those willing to scrabble up the backside to set it up.



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