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The Erratic
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When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Amy Skinner
Page Views: 2,503
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Pumpy, thin, sharp pockets above the bulge.

Description 

Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.

Location 

Located on the main Erratic, just left of a trio or quartet of 14's. Starts on the small sloping shelf on the left side of the wall.

Protection 

5 or 6 clips to anchors, possibly including lowering biners. Clip initial low bolts to avoid being strung out to dry and possibly stick clip the low 2nd bolt.


Photos of When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Working up to the 3rd bolt.
Working up to the 3rd bolt.
When Mike was a young girl, he had him a cowboy too.  Not that there's anything wrong with that :)
When Mike was a young girl, he had him a cowboy to...
The redpoint crux.  Atleast, until you get past this move and fall on the slopers above.
The redpoint crux. Atleast, until you get past th...
With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting pump, two evil slopers guard the finish.
With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting...

Comments on When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Add Comment
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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Aug 18, 2009

I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 8, 2009

I would call the sloper more "heartbreaking" than "cool"! A truly excellent route, though sharp as hell. I'm surprised by the star ratings. This is one of the most classic & well-known 5.13s at The Wild Iris. Its also one of the only hard routes with more than 5 hard moves.
By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I'm ALMOST speechless about this one. But one word that I can easily describe it with is STIIIIIIFF!!! And quality. And rad. And gnarly. And Skinnertastic. Etc. Okay, you can say a lot of good about this line.
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Aug 24, 2013

Agreed, awesome route with an utterly heart-breaking finish. Also be careful around the third bolt, it's about a centimeter out of the wall now from people whipping on it (maybe time for a new one there).