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The Erratic
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When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Amy Skinner
Page Views: 2,540
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Pumpy, thin, sharp pockets above the bulge.

Description 

Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.

Location 

Located on the main Erratic, just left of a trio or quartet of 14's. Starts on the small sloping shelf on the left side of the wall.

Protection 

5 or 6 clips to anchors, possibly including lowering biners. Clip initial low bolts to avoid being strung out to dry and possibly stick clip the low 2nd bolt.


Photos of When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Working up to the 3rd bolt.
Working up to the 3rd bolt.
When Mike was a young girl, he had him a cowboy to...
When Mike was a young girl, he had him a cowboy to...
The redpoint crux.  Atleast, until you get past th...
The redpoint crux. Atleast, until you get past th...
With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting...
With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting...

Comments on When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Add Comment
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By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 18, 2009

I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 8, 2009

I would call the sloper more "heartbreaking" than "cool"! A truly excellent route, though sharp as hell. I'm surprised by the star ratings. This is one of the most classic & well-known 5.13s at The Wild Iris. Its also one of the only hard routes with more than 5 hard moves.
By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I'm ALMOST speechless about this one. But one word that I can easily describe it with is STIIIIIIFF!!! And quality. And rad. And gnarly. And Skinnertastic. Etc. Okay, you can say a lot of good about this line.
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Aug 24, 2013

Agreed, awesome route with an utterly heart-breaking finish. Also be careful around the third bolt, it's about a centimeter out of the wall now from people whipping on it (maybe time for a new one there).