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Green Adjective Gully
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After The Fall T 
All Chalk And No Action S 
Badlands S 
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Beastie Boys T 
Creep Show T 
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Divine Intervention 
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Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 
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Stitches T 
Stormy Resurrection T 
Stranger Than Friction S 
Subordinate Claws TR 
Surprise Ending T,S 
This Is Almost the Place T 
Touch Up T 
Trinity Right T 
Unreliable T 
Wheeler Route T 
Wheels on Fire T 
Wheels on Fire Direct T 
Why Me? T 

Wheels on Fire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wheeler, Alred, Gilbert '78
Page Views: 6,646
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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A better shot of Mikey at the end of the traverse....

Description 

Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.

Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left-facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!


Protection 

Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.


Descent 

One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.



Photos of Wheels on Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Wheels as seen from up canyon.  Final dihedral is surprisingly long.  Exit the crack climber's right onto the face 10 feet before the top to find the chains.
Wheels as seen from up canyon. Final dihedral is ...
Another view with lines <br />1) Wheels on Fire <br />2) Wheels on Fire Direct
BETA PHOTO: Another view with lines
1) Wheels on Fire
2) Wheel...
Resting before the traverse.
Resting before the traverse.
John D. on the direct.
John D. on the direct.
Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious traverse left and then up the left facing flake.  Direct avoids the traverse and hits it's own left-facing flake.
BETA PHOTO: Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious ...
Mike Buchannan living in the wrong era!
Mike Buchannan living in the wrong era!
Rob, moving on the traverse.
Rob, moving on the traverse.
Wheels on Fire, as seen from the the approach to Sinsemilla Crack.
Wheels on Fire, as seen from the the approach to S...
Loving this no-hands rest.
Loving this no-hands rest.
Comments on Wheels on Fire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Another great route in an already great gully. Beside the lower section, this route sews up with medium to large nuts. Great stances to place great gear. Also, bring some runners.

By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The climb is right at a massive chockstone with a seep, that blocks the east side of the gully, just beyond Solo Slot, the oh so obvious easy squeeze chimney.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2006

Fun route, a good one to do while waiting for the cooler temps, it's nice all morning in that gully...

By tim naylor
Jul 6, 2014

great climbing and movement but seemed like it was going to fall down way back in 1998. one huge fractured flake?

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
1 day ago

For me this route felt much harder than After the Fall so I was surprised to see a lot of people up-rating AtF but maintaining the 5.9 grade here. I felt it was the reverse (WoF feeling closer to 10a or 10-). This route offered a lot of rattly fingers and flaring hand-sized pods and butt-cracks which felt really insecure at times.

The gear is not finicky to place for the most part, but in order to minimize rope drag and avoid hollow rock you have to give some thought to where, what, and how to sling...so I didn't find it to be a no-brainer.

A 70 m rope comfortably reaches all the way past the slippery chockstone on rappel. After the Fall was a great warm-up for this route and I'm glad I didn't do it in reverse, haa.