Wheelin N' Dealin  5.13c R

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Type:  Trad, 100 feet Consensus:  5.13c [details] FA:  Matt McCormick Oct 17, 2009 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Matt McCormick on Oct 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mid crux on an earlier attempt. The left foot I'm ...

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Description 

This route is the result of three and a half months of work and probably close to 20 big falls from the crux including a "cartwheel whipper" which is where the name comes from.

Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam and place some small gear before punching it to the horizontal. Rest here and get psyched for the crux above! Climb to a strenuous stance where you can place an improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod. After this punch through the extremely insecure crux above using the tiniest feet imaginable to reach a jug and place 2 tiny rps. Follow easier but run-out ground to the 2 bolt anchor above.

Check out the video of the cartwheel whipper here: mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2009/09/after-another-round-o>>>

And also another video of the process here:

Location 

This route starts 15' right of the start for Drop Fly or Die below the tiered overhangs and climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route.

Protection 

The gear is extremely specific and includes three hybrid aliens and several micro rps. Some of the gear is good and some is questionable to say the least. Top roping the route prior to a lead go is advisable due to the specific nature of the gear.

Photos of Wheelin N' Dealin Slideshow

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Yet another whipper from the crux	A shot of the gear protecting the crux. Check out ...	Entering the low crux on an earlier attempt. The g...
grabbing the tiny crimp at the crux	Taking the "Cartwheel Whipper." This is NOT photos...	Still a project...