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Wheelin N' Dealin 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a R

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Matt McCormick Oct 17, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,846
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Oct 18, 2009

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Mid crux on an earlier attempt. The left foot I'm ...

Description 

This route is the result of three and a half months of work and probably close to 20 big falls from the crux including a "cartwheel whipper" which is where the name comes from.

Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam and place some small gear before punching it to the horizontal. Rest here and get psyched for the crux above! Climb to a strenuous stance where you can place an improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod. After this punch through the extremely insecure crux above using the tiniest feet imaginable to reach a jug and place 2 tiny rps. Follow easier but run-out ground to the 2 bolt anchor above.

Check out the video of the cartwheel whipper here: mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com...

And also another video of the process here:


Location 

This route starts 15' right of the start for Drop Fly or Die below the tiered overhangs and climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route.

Protection 

The gear is extremely specific and includes three hybrid aliens and several micro rps. Some of the gear is good and some is questionable to say the least. Top roping the route prior to a lead go is advisable due to the specific nature of the gear.


Photos of Wheelin N' Dealin Slideshow Add Photo
Yet another whipper from the crux
Yet another whipper from the crux
Taking the "Cartwheel Whipper." This is ...
Taking the "Cartwheel Whipper." This is ...
Still a project...
Still a project...
grabbing the tiny crimp at the crux
grabbing the tiny crimp at the crux
Entering the low crux on an earlier attempt. The g...
Entering the low crux on an earlier attempt. The g...
A shot of the gear protecting the crux. Check out ...
A shot of the gear protecting the crux. Check out ...

Comments on Wheelin N' Dealin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 18, 2009

Congratulations Matt!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Oct 19, 2009

It's about time, Matt...now you can get back to some more sane climbing!
By Francisco Di Poi
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2009

wow dude....just checked out that cartwheel video whipper.....pretty intense man...my hats off to your courage
By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 22, 2009

Congratulations Matt! Good to see more balls to the wall routes going up in the Dacks. Lord knows I can't climb it, but the cliff isn't going anywhere. Maybe someday!
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Nov 16, 2009

Congrats, Matt, good to see you finished this thing with no serious injury.