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Eagle Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
38 and Drug Free TR 
All seriousness aside  S 
Alleyway T 
Amber Waves of Grain S 
Another Bolted Face Climb S 
Apple Jam T 
Attitude Adjuster T 
Bivy Route S 
Blaze of Glory S 
Bloody Phalanges S 
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 
Climb Out or Ground Out S 
Corner Line T 
Crankcase T,S,TR 
Delirious S 
Dirty Meat S 
Down Under S 
Eagle Direct T,S 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
Easy Stuff T 
Eavesy Stuff T 
Element 115 S 
Entrance Exam S 
Ewing's Girdle Traverse T 
Flake to Nowhere T 
Happy Face S 
Hard Stuff T 
highlander T,S 
Jack the Dripper T 
Longitudinal Wave S 
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 
No Rest for the Wicked S 
Only Frontier, The T 
Pried and Joy T,S 
Punks in the Gunks T,S 
Rainy Day Deliverance T 
Reckless Abandon S 
Root of Choice T 
Route Awakening S 
Scrappy Face S 
Seamless TR 
Short Stuff T 
Slice of the Gunks T 
Squeezed In TR 
Stevie's Spanking S 
Talus Scout S,TR 
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 
Texas Two Step T,S 
Upside down staircase T 
Walk on the Mild Side S 
Walk Up T 
Wave Guide S 
What's In a Name? S 
Wheaties S 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Witch Wonder T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Espesito 1977
Page Views: 2,182
Submitted By: Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Starting up the route

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Another classic! Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge. Belay here or continue forty feet to a bolt anchor. The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge. The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake.


Right of Reckless Abandon.



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By Costigan
Aug 10, 2011

Falcon guide gives it 10c....which is surely more honest than a incredibly sandbagged 5.9.
By Jack Lynch
From: Taos, New Mexico
Mar 11, 2016

Would definitely agree with Costigan, most stout 5.9 I've ever climbed
By Arlo Cristofaro
Sep 25, 2016

Going into this climb expecting a 5.9 was hilarious. The beginning moves are beautiful layback, but higher up is some less protected slabs that give a mean, cheese-grater-like stare... I wouldn't wanna whip up there, no siree. .10c seems reasonable. Got mi old ticker thumpin' good–whatta route!

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