By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 6, 2009
| So I was out over the weekend climbing solo in the Dias and about 200ft up I go to place my pinkie into a horizontal AND IT DOESN'T FIT!!!!! GASP! So I reach for the black tricam only to remember that I gave it away as a present:( Bummer. So I'm chillin out trying to decide which cam would work best in this situation.
So my question to all you Trad Masters out there is what cam (other than a tricam) do you most often reach for when faced with a horizontal and why?
Supra
Edit: in bold to clarify the question. | 
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By Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Oct 6, 2009
| Alien. It's what I got, and flexibility |
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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Oct 6, 2009
| The tri'cam' of course. Silly...
Also aliens. |
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By Robert 560
From The Land of the Lost
Oct 6, 2009
| I'd also have to go with the Tricams |
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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 6, 2009
| You're right Bob. I was asking folks opinions on what they'd use if a tricam placement wasn't happening. Believe me, I'd much prefer to have a pinkie watching my back over anything else in a horizontal.
Out of my own gear:
WC Zeroes>>Mastercams>>BallNutz>>Trango Splitters>>BD C3's. |
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By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Oct 6, 2009
| On my rack, it'd be a choice between C4 or Mastercam. The Mastercam stem is much more flexible, so on a horizontal, I'd grab for that first. |
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By Couloirman
Oct 6, 2009
| forged friend with a gunks tie off, assuming the placement is deep enough that the tie off was relatively flush with the wall. |
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By Evan1984
Oct 6, 2009
| Bob Packwood wrote: Supra is asking what SLCD you would use if you didn't have a Tricam that fit....right Supra? Any SLCD with a non-rigid stem would have to do, and you would basically have to be comfortable with that until the next placement...that or skip it.
Bob is right on. I've placed C4's, met. TCU's, masters, aliens, and met. 4cu's. They have all held respectably well. Non of them were worse for wear(and I've weighted all of them either at belays oor on aid).
I would recommend the flex stem piece that places the best. The flex stems work remarkably well.
C3's are the only piece I don't really like to place in horizontals, and it is more an issue of me worry that I'll damage the cables and not be able to fix them.
Cheers,
Evan |
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By FC John
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 6, 2009
| Other than a tri cam....Aliens or more recently mastercams. But dude....don't give away your tricams |
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Oct 6, 2009
| metolius TCU... love em... |
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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 7, 2009
| Mark Roth wrote: www.youtube.com/user/pulltesting Did anyone watch this from the other thread? scary
IIRC that test on the mastercam was bunk. The testing equipment wasn't rigid enough and flexed giving the impression that the mastercam was at fault. The whole thread is on rockclimbing.com. Metolius responded to that particular concern in the thread. |
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By Wade Frank
From Littleton, CO
Oct 7, 2009
| I would put in any one of the cams that would fit, I cary c4's, master cams and a few of the old power cams. What I always do on a horizontle placement is to make sure the outside lobes are on the bottom. |
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By Gunkiemike
Oct 8, 2009
| Wade Frank wrote: I would put in any one of the cams that would fit, I cary c4's, master cams and a few of the old power cams. What I always do on a horizontle placement is to make sure the outside lobes are on the bottom.
Because you think it might tip over if the outside lobes are on top? "Less stable"?
Can't happen.
Place it whichever way it better fits the irregularities of the crack. |
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By Will Anglin
From Sykesville, MD
Oct 8, 2009
| C3's and Mastercams are pretty gangster |
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By Jamie Henrichsen
From Lake Morena, CA
Oct 21, 2009
| Why not just place a hex and skip the slcd if the tri cam is out? |
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By Buff Johnson
Oct 21, 2009
| suprasoup wrote: ... (other than a tricam) do you most often reach for when faced with a horizontal and why?
the next horizontal. Because if I couldn't get a tri-cam to work, I might as well keep going; or reach for my belayer -- your turn. |
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By John Maurer
Oct 21, 2009
| A rigid-stem friend tied off with spectra . . . given the ease of accomplishing this one-handed while climbing. |
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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 21, 2009
| Buff Johnson wrote: the next horizontal. Because if I couldn't get a tri-cam to work, I might as well keep going; or reach for my belayer -- your turn.
I tried that once with my Silent Partner...I never got a response. |
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By Punter Brewster
Oct 27, 2009
| Okay, so we are talking a horizontal only large enough for a black tri-cam and several people are suggesting rigid friends? I'm a bit confused as to how that could possibly work. |
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By John Maurer
Oct 28, 2009
| Ahhh . . . didn't read carefully enough to note a crack size . . . |
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By Fat Paul
From nj
Oct 28, 2009
| Supra, practice up with your horizontal cam placements for when you visit the Gunks. Probably 65% of your gear placement there will be horizontal placements. Wade offers good advise concerning the orientation of your cam (widest lobes on bottom) since it provides a more stable platform. Most of my cam placements are like this but there are occasions when the inverse works better. I try to work the lobes behind crystals and indentations to maximize holding power. TCU's are great for this but any cam will work. |
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