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What's your descender?

Original Post
Joe-GA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

Hello all - I am getting into rappelling and looking for some advice. Hopefully I'm not asking one of those "this has been hashed out a million times" questions.

Which device do you guys prefer for general rappelling and descending? Please note that I am not going to take any opinions here and go test something out on a 50 ft. wall. I'm just wondering if a Grigri and a separate autoblock would be a good setup...or if there is something "safer"?...really just wondering what the most common and safe practice is (figure 8, ATC, tubular, or some other device).

THANKS for helping me get started.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I suspect you're a troll, because nobody actually goes rapelling for fun. That's just dumb. But I'll take the bait.

Anyway, most climbers use a standard ATC or tube-style device. A grigri is good, but can only be used to rappel a single line, unless you start getting into advanced rigging.

For that there sport-rappelling you're looking to do, a large figure eight device like the Petzl Piranha might be the best option.

Joe-GA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

It doesn't take much to excite me I guess.

Are there any other back-ups that you could incorporate other than the autoblock?

Joe-GA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

Just saw the troll comment. I'm innocent. I'm just interested in learning the techniques, etc...I'm not good at climbing tough walls but I do enjoy the know-how of getting down.

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

When I was first getting started I was really glad to have found this site.

instructables.com/id/How-to…

Great for self-teaching.

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

This is probably not the best place on the interwebs for this question. Rappelling is typically a necessity for rock climbers, rather than the end goal. As such, what we will use for descent is not the same as what might be ideal for rappelling for fun.

That being said, a grigri is a pretty poor dedicated descender. The main benefit is the autolocking capability, which locks and transitions into descent instantly. This is handy for belaying and doing work on a wall, but not as useful for continuous descent. It is substantially more difficult to have a smooth, well-controlled rappel with a grigri than other devices. You almost certainly don't want a friction hitch backup with a grigri, as it does the locking by itself an would be a pain to manage. Instead, some backup knots in the rope work nicely.

Most cavers/canyoneers tend to prefer figure 8s as a dedicated rappel device, as this is certainly the smoothest of your choices. However, they aren't particularly versatile. Side note: they are basically useless to rock climbers, as they are terrible for belays compared to standard tube devices. A figure 8 and some form of friction hitch backup is a tried and true combo, provided you have a thorough understanding of the system and have developed good instincts with their use.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I'd suggest taking your question to bogley.com. It's a canyoneering forum full of people who rappel for fun. They also know more about rappel-only devices than most climbers do. And they're not as likely to be massive douchewads to people who post in the beginner forum.

While I'm here though - canyoneeringusa.com/techtip…

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
MarktheCPA wrote:When I was first getting started I was really glad to have found this site. instructables.com/id/How-to… Great for self-teaching.
I hope you are trolling.

I hope everyone is trolling.
Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

I like rappelling, mainly because I had to do it before I started climbing. A figure 8 is going to be faster and less controlled(but still as safe) than an ATC. Good for getting you to the bottom quickly, not stopping to clean gear or observe the potential route.

If you climb too, get an ATC and call it good. Getting a GriGri for rappelling is like using a blanket as a parachute.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Nah. Met a guy at the crag who had a huge decal on the back of his car that said "sport rapeller" and sure enough there was an odd couple exclaiming about the proper angle to hold an ATC at on rappel and the 'difficulty of that descent' amused I offered to let them climb on a TR i had just set.

Their response "no way man. We gotta work our way up to that! It looks scary!" And around the single pitch sport cra they went for another exciting lap of sport rappelling. Comes back and asks me "dude. I hear there's this really famous place for rapelling multi pitch style, I think it's called the Gunks, have you ever been rappelling there?"

When you rap - knot the ends of your ropes. Thread the rope through something metal. Never rap directly off of webbing in a public use area.

Joe-GA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

I do appreciate the responses. I do feel a little abused...I see that it is probably better to go to a canyoneering forum. Done.

Thanks!

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
D.Buffum wrote:Learn how to do a 'biner brake: Also, the munter hitch: Both are emergency solutions.
Oddly enough I was talking to a guy six months down the road after a little incident. He related to me a story where he was going to rap but then realized he did not have a belay device so he had his belayer put him back on belay. Things did not go well and he got dropped.

I asked him if he knew how to use a carabiner brake. Nope, never heard of it so I showed him. I will not fully repeat what he said but the gist was "fuck me" as he realized how simple it is to construct and that had he knew it he would have used it to rap and not decked.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
D.Buffum wrote:Learn how to do a 'biner brake: Also, the munter hitch: Both are emergency solutions.
Now your talkin'...used it for years now..many years
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Allen Sanderson wrote: I asked him if he knew how to use a binder break. Nope, never heard of it so I showed him.
A binder break? That's like when the 3 rings that hold the looseleaf papers don't snap closed right? And the pages start to fall out of the binder. Happened to me once in 10th grade, real PITA.

I don't know what that has to do with rappelling though.
Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
Joe-GA wrote: I do feel a little abused...Done. Thanks!
Joe, hate to see you go. Although there are many expert climbers that look down on us beginners with disdain, there are many beginners that are trying to learn the sport in a safe manner, and look to others for discussion and advice.

I am a beginner climber. I had the good fortune to have some basic instruction from a retired Army Ranger Climb Instructor. The really good climbers will laugh at this, it was pretty basic. But I learned a lot of good habits and we spent a half day on rappelling. I continue to read and analyze climbing techniques. I am a baby boomer so will not live long enough to be an expert. But I try.

My choice device for belaying is the Grigri, my choice device for rappelling is an ATC. My wife uses a bell shaped ATC, while I use a modified one that has little grippers on one side. We feel the Grigri has to much ability to have a runaway. We also employ an auto block during rappel.

There are many other options. But for $30 a bell shaped ATC seems to be the most cost effective and safe.
michael s · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 80
Jason Todd wrote:The Dulfersitz!
This is actually correct.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"What's your descender?"

Gravity and so far it never seems to fail.
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
Locker wrote:"What's your descender?" Gravity and so far it never seems to fail.
Literally in tears laughing.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

I use this



plus another one



because having an ATC with two slots is just too complicated.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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