What's Wrong with Parents Today 5.11a
| 587 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2002 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Upper Left Bihedral area.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral Rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. Climb up a short corner with two bolts on the right side of the rock and just left of a chimney. Reach a steep section and crank through the roof (crux) and up to a ramp. Clip a bolt and make cool moves up the arete/face on great holds past the last bolt and into a nice crack system. Continue up to the anchors.
Protection Four bolts plus small to mid-size gear.
| Comments on What's Wrong with Parents Today |
|
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2003
| The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 3, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route! |
By Jon Lachelt
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 21, 2009
| A really fun route... but maybe my perspective was skewed by the adrenaline. Went up this w/o reading the info so didn't have any gear with me. Pretty scary at one point moving past the 3rd bolt since I wasn't quite sure which way to go at first (go right, BTW). I actually didn't find any of the moves very hard, just heady when I was run-out. |
|
RSS Feed
39 more...
