This is a fun and exciting route with great crux moves through the roof. The gear is reasonable for the crux as well, and the fall would be clean. Take a lot (at least 5) of 2-foot runners to protect this climb, as the tiered roofs of the Left Wing start require some, as will the roof crux.
The route ascends a system not very visible on the photo attached, for its bottom half. For the roof and final dihedral, however, this route is appears on the upper left-hand corner of the photo as a small roof (crux 5.10+) just below a massive trapezoidal roof, which is just the right-hand side of the final dihedral (5.9), to be described. To climb this route, approach as for "FM" and do the opening moves of "FM," up past a pin (5.10+) then up and left to a ledge as for the start of "Left Wing." Alternatively, start by scrambling to this same point. Now, continue up the first 30 feet of "Left Wing," to where it goes left on the face - clip the first bolt and then go right to continue upward in the dihedral. This is insecure 5.10 for a few moves and is sometimes a bit wet. If it is wet, wait until it is dry, so the route goes full-value on fun. From the dihedral, you will place a few cams (1" and 1.5"-2") in the crack overhead through the roof. This is the crux pro, so set it well, and mind the drag with some long slings if you place one in the back of the corner. Undercling out to a lie-back move, then jam and heel-hook to swing through the roof and up. This is solid and powerful 5.10+ but is not sustained. Once over the roof, establish a rest stance and place gear before making some insecure face-moves up to the left side of a hanging pillar, which forms a roof at its bottom. Climb on the left side of the roof formed by said pillar, and up into the dihedral on the left of this pillar to the top (5.9).
The route is very fun and sports a wild array of moves.
Standard rack plus some extra cams 0.75" - 2.5". *IF* I correctly recall, the crux is just above a 1.5- 2" cam placement.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 2, 2003
The crux is very protectable and if I had to do all over again at the crux (little roof) I would clip the old piton in the middle of the roof and have a medium size nut and draw ready to slot in the seam of the jug that is on the lip of the roof/bulge and plan to place it quickly and then step high with a right foot onto the arete and with your right arm on the jug lift your left arm to a higher jug just below a old but usable piton and then move your right hand up to another solid hand hold just above your left hand shifting your weight our right onto your right foot (clip the piton and step up for a rest the next section is 5.9 - good luck (efficient gear placement and no hestitation will get the typical 5.10 trad leader through) solid 5.11 climbers will not need to read this - have fun...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 26, 2004
Both my partner and I (as well as other people I've talked to) didn't feel the 10+ undercling lieback was the crux. We felt that the section getting though the slot in the roof above was the crux. Unbelievably, Rossiter's topo calls this part 5.9! There is a rusty knifeblade protecting this section, then gear becomes marginal and difficult to place for the hardest, most insecure moves. Even the section after the slot/roof was sustained and difficult ("5.8" in Rossiter), although MAYBE you could attribute that to ropedrag. Awesome route!
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2004
Yes, what's up with the "5.9" second pitch? For the second time I followed the roof clean and then backed off the second pitch after flailing. P2 feels like 11a/b to me.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Jul 7, 2005
I had no trouble on P1 and there are a few fixed pieces which makes things easier. The roof is challenging but the hands are pretty good and it can be protected well with a nut slid in at the very top of the roof. It's one of those nut placements in which the size doesn't really matter.
I think the crux was in the "chimney" which is right above the roof. I call it a chimney because my partner named it such and I also had to use my hip in it. It's more like an awkward dihedral. My partner told horror stories about it so we TR'd this part. It's awkward getting in and you have to use your hip, but then I got two good crimpers on each side of the dihedral and did a pullup with dangling feet until I got high enough to get my feet stemmed. This seems to be the crux. I don't know that I would have done this same move on lead.
|By Thom Engelbach|
Mar 12, 2007
The rusty knifeblade is sheared off now, but you can get a couple of good RPs. Make sure they are good, because this is one of the hardest 5.9s in the canyon....
Jul 19, 2014
Hardest 5.10 in the Universe and one of the best in Boulder Canyon! There is a large, detached flake in the lower corner which should be treated with care. Avoid clipping the bolt on Left Wing, it will just mess you up. Really wild monkey moves around the first big roof followed by bizarre and insecure opposition moves, stemming and chimneying at the second overhang, the cruxes are steep and in your face!