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What's This Route (above Beckey's Wall)
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By N. Aksamit
Sep 25, 2012

I am trying to track down some cracks that a few of us climbed a couple weekends ago. The picture attached shows our approximate route. We combined a & b as one pitch.

We climbed to the top Beckey's/Pebbles and Bambam anchors and ventured "cross country" up and right. We eyed a reddish corner with a crack in the back of it and shot for it, crossing a couple bolted slabs. We got to the bottom of our red 5.7/8 hand crack (bottom of part a) built our own anchor and climbed a pretty nice crack, despite all the large crystals inside. It was maybe 40 ft tall.

From there we ventured to part b, a flake to a squeeze chimney to the left of a bolted line that looked like incredibly flaky and terrible rock. In the middle of the squeeze was an old fixed angle. We finished the pitch at the chains above the flaky slab climb. It took about 4 60m rope lengths to get there from the top of Pebbles and Bambam.

In the guidebook, it appears that the a-and-b cracks are in the blank sections of the topos that were not drawn. I hope somebody shed any light on this. It was fun whatever it was.

Thanks in advance.

a=Hand Crack <br />b=Squeeze Chimney to left of bolted line
a=Hand Crack
b=Squeeze Chimney to left of bolted line


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Sep 25, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

A - Did you pass under and to the right of "Siesta - 5.10a" going toward this hand crack? Then you pass through the calderone land of a million rap anchors? Kind of a bouldery move over a ledge to gain the chimney above?

B - The funnel chimney that those adventure climbs above normally all end at. Pretty fun chimney from what I remember. Finishes on a nice gravely flat spot that had some goat bones a few years back.

Also refer to this if you haven't. mountainproject.com/v/the-orange-sling/105987849


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By N. Aksamit
Sep 26, 2012

Greg,

Thanks. It looks like Orange Sling goes a little more plumb bob above the Pebbles and Bam Bam anchors than we did. If I'm not mistaken, I think we actually crossed the Split Pants gully.
I will have to wait until I can get my hands on my guidebook again before I can see if I crossed Siesta. Thanks again.


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