What's New Pussycat?
BETA PHOTO: What's New Pussycat 5.10a
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A two-pitch sport climb on crispy varnish features, with a slabby move thrown in here and there.
P1 Climb up to a bulging flake and clip the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the most difficult move of the pitch, but a little thought and balance will see it through. After the second bolt trend generally right using varnish knobs and features to the anchor.
P2 Didn't get to climb it, but the pitch starts up from the P1 anchor and trends left to an anchor on top and at the right of the overhang that is above and to your left while at the P1 anchor.
Get to this via the "second tier" ledge in the Sand Dunes area of the Island in the Sky formation.
At the top of the 3rd-class gully that leads to the second tier, head south (right). Pass two bulging buttresses on your left. What's New Pussycat is on the third buttress, just past a gully. There is a drilled pin route (Stranger than Friction) across the gully to the left of this bolted line.
Looking up the midpoint rappel anchor is obvious with its slings.
P1 9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The guidebook says 8 bolts.
P2 8 bolts (according to the guidebook).
Rappel from the P2 anchor straight down to a midpoint rappel anchor with slings that lies to the left of the P1 anchor. Rappel from there to the ground.
Rappelling from the P1 anchor is also easy since the hangers are Metolius rap hangers.
Looking at the Pussycat
Looking up at Whats New Pussycat from the bottom o...
From: The Woodlands, TX
Jan 1, 2009
Climbed this route on New Year's Eve 2008 for perhaps the fifth time; second time to do second pitch. The 10a rating may only be deserved by one move past the second bolt, but the fragility of the rock is sure to keep the juices flowing. I had pulled a brick sized hold off the wall near the finish a few years ago, and my partner obliterated a dish sized plate of varnish on 12/31/08. This piece of "rock" was a bolt below the top of the first pitch, out right...which looks like a possible route to the anchors but is very suspect. Go straight up from the last bolt instead, looking for a sandy but good left hand and willing to perform a few slabby friction moves to finish. You can rap the route from here, even top-rope it I know with a 70m rope. This may certainly be an option for those not comfortable with the stone, as the second pitch will certainly see additional breaking off of flakes, "potato chip" holds, and even bigger blocks.
|By Suzanne Wilson 1|
From: Placentia, California
Nov 16, 2013
What a great route and deserving of more stars. I thought it was the same quality of Leopard Skin. We did not encounter any loose rock or plates. The second pitch was steep and quality and probably 5.8 and definitely worth doing.