What's Biting Me? 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Dan and Tina Godshall |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dan G0D5H411 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Scott past the crux on the second ascent.
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Description Although no harder than 11c, this would be an impressive onsight! What's Biting Me? follows chunky rock for the first 30 feet until it blends into nice, smooth limestone. After clipping the first bolt, cryptic and small holds get you to a jug to make the second clip. Follow better (but even more hidden) holds to make the third clip and set yourself up for the puzzling crux. Three more bolts and juggy but sustained movement deposits you at the double chain anchors above.
Location Follow the middle trail to the Bank which ends 30 left of the Surreal Estate Wall, just below Staying Power.
What's Biting Me? sits 50 feet to the left, just left of a wide crack and Thunder Thighs. Follow bulging rock to a small left-facing corner and finish below a large roof that caps the entire formation.
Protection 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Setting up for the thin crux.
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| Comments on What's Biting Me? |
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 6, 2010
| Looks fun, can't wait to give it a go in a few days. |
By 303scott
Apr 6, 2010
| Tiny pinches, delicate footwork, strenuous laybacks and thank god pockets. This climb packs a lot into 50 feet. You pull through the crux with the last bolt near your feet, which adds a little spice, but the fall is completely clean. With Dan and Tina providing a steady stream of beta (and after taking a whipper at the crux the first go around) I thought this was 11c, so it is probably a bit harder onsight. |
By Darryl Roth
Apr 8, 2010
| I've been waiting about 20 years (seriously) to see when someone would finally put that line in. It's almost a relief to see it. Thanks! |
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 26, 2010
| Glad to hear people psyched about the route! We're thinking of adding an extension through the overhanging dihedral/roof some time in the future. A hard boulder problem finish (dyno off of two, two-finger pockets with no feet) seemed a little out of character with the rest of the climb. |
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