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Second Buttress
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Whatever 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Jack & L. Malloy
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Aug 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

From the Malloy book: "climb flakes and cracks to the chimney system on the left. Continue up broken chimney system to the anchors."
I would suggest it's a full body workout with some hand, fist, OW, rounded edges, chimney, and face all wrapped up into one strenous & sustanined pitch. The last 15' is the crux with crumbly, rounded holds until you can get the locker-hand-jam and dish to pull onto the ledge. (It is best to plan yer lead head at 9+.)

Location 

This is on the far right side of the Second Buttress, 10' left of Journey through Gandawandaland. It shares the same chain anchors. Rap to the right to reach the upper ledge at 60m, then 4th-class scramble down 30' more.

Protection 

Full double rack.


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